7 years ago I was also given a beat up delaminated Byrne (man I loved that thing and proud to say I gave it away in the same respect; who knows where it is now). That day I paddled out in a rare medium sized--which seemed huge to me--summer swell. Each set I took I was too far up or too far back on the board...nose dive into the sand or lack of speed for the wave. A pack of old guys paddled too me and said that I had some balls for taking that many spills and paddling back out (and not knowing how to duck dive on a board to buoyant for me). They helped me with my surfing. Man it'd be cool to see them in the line up again.
It was 1964 and my buddy's parents bought him a 9'8 Sportflite from Sears. We took that baby to Dewey Beach and surfed all day. Took turns pushing each other into the white water, kept slipping and busting our a$$es all day. Finally some big dude came up to us and took the board and started rubbing "parafin" (that was the only wax you could buy back then, it was used to seal jelly jars) all over the top. We had been surfing without wax all day. That guy was a big influence on my surfing because it was a hell of a lot easier after that!
That would have been "Tiny" Tim, of "Tim" surfboards fame.
Spent the summer of 1979 working at Phillips Crab House in OCMD. My boss in the kitchen was a local named Andy Brown - his family owned a hotel on 34th Street I think. Anyway, Andy found out that a bunch of us were trying to learn how to surf, so he volunteered to meet us each morning and help us out.
I have no idea what inspired him to hang with us kooks, but I'm forever grateful. In a couple of months we got his lifetime worth of knowledge about swells, tides, winds, and the breaks of the Delmarva. He inspired us so much that four of us walked out of Phillips in late August and took off for Hatteras. It was a stupid hunch, but we scored in a big way - sometimes it pays to quit
Thirty years later I'm still surfing, and even still surfing with one my Hatteras buddies from Phillips.
I always said to myself man I would love to try surfing.Without even trying it first bought a brand new board and my first time out I got hammered.Thought about quiting right there.But each time it got better and better and my buddy started a month after I did so we took the journey together.So I taught myself how to surf but the couple guys I look up to is Tom Curren and Laird.also have deep respect for Kelly thou.
Last edited by Duck Dive 26; Nov 7, 2009 at 01:13 AM.
In response to jimmeycraxcom, Gregg Noll is still alive and kicking. He and his son recently opened a new surf shop in California. Miki Dora passed away in 2002. Two close friends of mine surfed with both men in California and Hawaii. Who says one or both didn't teach Matt to surf?
i don't remember saying anything about Noll being dead... and... nice touch with the "two close friends" bit, but to answer your question.... I say.
They didnt directly "teach" me how to surf but , I have alway been into that era of surfing and thats what got me hooked on surfing.
Miki Dora had some amazing foot work skills and nose riding ability. "Miki Dora could ride the nose so long he could eat a chesse sandwich out there" Quote Bruce Brown
Greg Noll who isnt influenced by "Da Bull" . Surfer like Greg Noll and Chip Van Artsdale were pioneers of Big Wave surfing and took the sport to a higher level.
Both there styles of surfing are major influences in my surfng. I rember been a kid and watching Endless Summer on AMC channel for the very first time I was hooked after that . The nextday I went out and got my very first board from a yard sale. It was a 9'0 Hobie from the 60's a total tank but I didnt care .
People teach other people things everyday . Most dont teach directly to a person but what a person has done can leave a meaningful impact on someone's life