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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    South Jersey
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    "your not thinking about your problems back on the beach."

    you cant explain in words how it feels to be shot out of a spitting barrel behind you-pure adrenaline(<spelling?)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Ortley beach NJ
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    it is hard to describe but id say that it is like controlling nature kind of. you can do ehat ever you want to do when youre on it. when im surfing not much goes through my head just chill.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Monmouth County
    Posts
    1,366
    Quote Originally Posted by conway View Post
    next time you go surf, after you catch a wave, try to remember what you were thinking about during your ride. probably, all you'll be able to remember is the ride itself, which is why people love it so much. it clears your mind of everything but what is happening at that exact moment, which is very purifying. you are devoid of thought when you ride a wave, focused simply on the here and now.

    surfing and heroin make your brain emit the same type of endorphin, except surfing is a totally pure and healthy pursuit so it leaves a completely positive impression on your synapses. this could explain why when some people learn to surf, they surf until they die. it's like an addiction, a mental and emotional leash that keeps you close to the source until you've had enough to take the edge off for a little while.

    so, if i had to describe riding a wave, i would say it's like shooting up the most pure heroin on earth without ruining your life or waking up in a strange house with people you've never met before the next day.
    i agree with the first par completely. a lot of the time i don't even remember the whole wave, just like a turn i lined up, or the lip pitching over. it's pretty weird how that happens. also, i don't think it's possible to think of anything else besides the wave when you're on it.

    with that being said, do heroin much?? ha

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    ocean view
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    60
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    when the waves are really good it seems that my entire life comes into focus. i am never more content than when i am nestled in the pocket of overhead beachbreak. i often have nothing to say other than "thank you jesus".

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    WB: C-street and Mase and Sweetwater and all sorts of chill places around WB. Its rad.
    Posts
    559
    Quote Originally Posted by mOtion732 View Post
    i agree with the first par completely. a lot of the time i don't even remember the whole wave, just like a turn i lined up, or the lip pitching over. it's pretty weird how that happens. also, i don't think it's possible to think of anything else besides the wave when you're on it.

    with that being said, do heroin much?? ha
    lol nah, a while back one of the mags did an article on the chemical process of "stoke" and it compared the dopamine rush you get from riding a wave to that you can get from a drug or sex or another type of physical stimulation. the good feeling you get from riding a wave is very close to a viable "high", just a natural one rather than a chemically induced one.

  6. #16

    Cool What A STUPID analysis!!!

    Dude, what you are saying is that we can hope that somehow surfing can be as good as the best heroin. Wow, and the Nirvana song is so in touch. Without responsiblity there would be nothing to escape from. Therefore, why surf if surfing is only a drug for you?
    You are dissing surfing and the feeling of freedom that we get in boh life and surfing when we can take on a challange and beat it. Yes the wave is the challange. We choose to take it on, we beat it or it beats us. Either way we get back up and try again.
    Or like you did in your post, we compare what we do with what a loser drug addict does. What a pathetic comparrison. Why not compare it with another positive like the feeling of scoring a game winning touchdown, a walk off homerun, or it feels like I am closer to God at that moment, pure yes, but not pure like heroin. Take a look on the internet and look at heroin addicts, look how pure and close to nature they look. Look at the track marks all over their arms, and tell me how that or they are pure. That and they are pathetic. It is sad and I would never compare any positive thing in surfing or life to drug use. Look on the internet and tell me how looking at photos of people strung out on heroin could ever be compared to surfers in the surf riding the perfect wave
    P E A C E, bro!

  7. I would say it's the closest feeling to flying that you can get without wings.
    Flying so fast down the line that tears build up in your eyes and you cant see.
    Damn... I love surfing.
    So stoked for winter.

  8. #18
    I say its like nothing else matters expecially when its big.. once your makeing a heavy paddle or eyeing a big section infront of you nothing matters but trying to make it. When its smaller i just feel fun kickin down the face looking for the sweet spot. But in the winter after i get a good wave and take a cold one on the dome i alayws get this like lightheaded numbness (not a icecream) in my head that i can only compare to being baked. love it
    Last edited by SearchForShacks; Nov 11, 2009 at 05:55 PM.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    WB: C-street and Mase and Sweetwater and all sorts of chill places around WB. Its rad.
    Posts
    559
    Quote Originally Posted by shootingstar View Post
    Dude, what you are saying is that we can hope that somehow surfing can be as good as the best heroin. Wow, and the Nirvana song is so in touch. Without responsiblity there would be nothing to escape from. Therefore, why surf if surfing is only a drug for you?
    You are dissing surfing and the feeling of freedom that we get in boh life and surfing when we can take on a challange and beat it. Yes the wave is the challange. We choose to take it on, we beat it or it beats us. Either way we get back up and try again.
    Or like you did in your post, we compare what we do with what a loser drug addict does. What a pathetic comparrison. Why not compare it with another positive like the feeling of scoring a game winning touchdown, a walk off homerun, or it feels like I am closer to God at that moment, pure yes, but not pure like heroin. Take a look on the internet and look at heroin addicts, look how pure and close to nature they look. Look at the track marks all over their arms, and tell me how that or they are pure. That and they are pathetic. It is sad and I would never compare any positive thing in surfing or life to drug use. Look on the internet and tell me how looking at photos of people strung out on heroin could ever be compared to surfers in the surf riding the perfect wave
    P E A C E, bro!
    read my posts again and that is not what i said. the chemical process in your brain when you catch a good wave is identical to the one that occurs when you use drugs, or feel good about anything at all. the feeling of scoring the game winning touchdown or hitting the walk off homerun is the exact same thing. it's a release of dopamine. plain and simple, you feel good doing it and you want to feel that same kind of good as much as possible. so you paddle out again. and again and again.
    when i said it was a pure feeling, i was referring to surfing. it's a totally pure, clean, healthy pursuit so you feel good about it every time you do it.

    try reading my posts again. i think they might've been over your head.

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by conway View Post
    read my posts again and that is not what i said. the chemical process in your brain when you catch a good wave is identical to the one that occurs when you use drugs, or feel good about anything at all. the feeling of scoring the game winning touchdown or hitting the walk off homerun is the exact same thing. it's a release of dopamine. plain and simple, you feel good doing it and you want to feel that same kind of good as much as possible. so you paddle out again. and again and again.
    when i said it was a pure feeling, i was referring to surfing. it's a totally pure, clean, healthy pursuit so you feel good about it every time you do it.

    try reading my posts again. i think they might've been over your head.
    Conway, don't even get involved in a silly argument with this kid. I thoroughly read your post and can say that you covered all basis along with an interesting comparison. If others wish to be adversaries, I would simply ignore them because your post was spot on!