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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    long branch
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    How would you describe riding a wave?

    I think it would be cool to know how people would describe riding a wave, like what goes through their mind or just the experience it gives them.

    My personal description would be taking control of something that's uncontrollable.

    There probably is another thread like this but I didn't feel like looking through all of them

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    oceanview,delaware
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    146

    Smile

    i think i would describe it as participating in something that was beyond control.absolutely instantaneously addictive after that 1st ride too.i think that's the allure is the fact of it's uncontrolability is why we go back time & time again,to see what the next ride will be like.you can't control any wave,but only try to put yourself in the most optimum part of it,but even then you only have a second or 2 to get to that sweet spot before the wave takes over & works you if you miss the window.hey,gettin worked by a big wave every once in a while lets you know your alive & only a participant in that realm.

  3. #3
    Id say that its like temp. nirvana, like everyhthing in that moment makes sense and you feel completely at ease and free. I like how the world just feels like its stopped and im all alone yet part of something that is bigger and more interconnected than me.

    its hard to articulate it without sounding a little corny.

  4. #4
    It feels like u loose all time and i dont think at all when im on it. Also just being out there is just an awesome thing, expecially when ur alone, it just sounds so awesome and is so peacefull

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    North Wildwood ,Nj
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    I dont think about anything I am when surfing. Everthing seases to exhist and its just me and the waves

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Lewes, DE
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    Quote Originally Posted by MATT JOHNSON View Post
    I dont think about anything I am when surfing. Everthing seases to exhist and its just me and the waves
    I'm on the same wavelength. For me, its about letting going of the responsibilities that are on land. Its about getting back to nature. Not trying to control Nature, but flowing with it. I find it very freeing.

  7. #7
    For me, it is completely irreplaceable. Nothing else on Earth matters when I'm on a wave. It's my stress-reliever.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    ocmd
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    I find myself almost blacking out really good rides. the epic rides or barrels usually dont slip my memory though....

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Jersey
    Posts
    15
    The great Hawaiian King Makahuni said 'The only spooky stuff is the real spooky stuff that is real spooky.'

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    WB: C-street and Mase and Sweetwater and all sorts of chill places around WB. Its rad.
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    559
    next time you go surf, after you catch a wave, try to remember what you were thinking about during your ride. probably, all you'll be able to remember is the ride itself, which is why people love it so much. it clears your mind of everything but what is happening at that exact moment, which is very purifying. you are devoid of thought when you ride a wave, focused simply on the here and now.

    surfing and heroin make your brain emit the same type of endorphin, except surfing is a totally pure and healthy pursuit so it leaves a completely positive impression on your synapses. this could explain why when some people learn to surf, they surf until they die. it's like an addiction, a mental and emotional leash that keeps you close to the source until you've had enough to take the edge off for a little while.

    so, if i had to describe riding a wave, i would say it's like shooting up the most pure heroin on earth without ruining your life or waking up in a strange house with people you've never met before the next day.