i think i would describe it as participating in something that was beyond control.absolutely instantaneously addictive after that 1st ride too.i think that's the allure is the fact of it's uncontrolability is why we go back time & time again,to see what the next ride will be like.you can't control any wave,but only try to put yourself in the most optimum part of it,but even then you only have a second or 2 to get to that sweet spot before the wave takes over & works you if you miss the window.hey,gettin worked by a big wave every once in a while lets you know your alive & only a participant in that realm.
Id say that its like temp. nirvana, like everyhthing in that moment makes sense and you feel completely at ease and free. I like how the world just feels like its stopped and im all alone yet part of something that is bigger and more interconnected than me.
its hard to articulate it without sounding a little corny.
I dont think about anything I am when surfing. Everthing seases to exhist and its just me and the waves
I'm on the same wavelength. For me, its about letting going of the responsibilities that are on land. Its about getting back to nature. Not trying to control Nature, but flowing with it. I find it very freeing.
WB: C-street and Mase and Sweetwater and all sorts of chill places around WB. Its rad.
next time you go surf, after you catch a wave, try to remember what you were thinking about during your ride. probably, all you'll be able to remember is the ride itself, which is why people love it so much. it clears your mind of everything but what is happening at that exact moment, which is very purifying. you are devoid of thought when you ride a wave, focused simply on the here and now.
surfing and heroin make your brain emit the same type of endorphin, except surfing is a totally pure and healthy pursuit so it leaves a completely positive impression on your synapses. this could explain why when some people learn to surf, they surf until they die. it's like an addiction, a mental and emotional leash that keeps you close to the source until you've had enough to take the edge off for a little while.
so, if i had to describe riding a wave, i would say it's like shooting up the most pure heroin on earth without ruining your life or waking up in a strange house with people you've never met before the next day.