I had the greatest time ever yesterday. 48th was firing all day practically, there was a West OZ looking sandbar that had some crazy barrels which led into an easier barreling left. Vince was killing it, making air drops left and right. Needless to say it was one of the best solid swells weve had in a while.
My epoxy santa cruz was dinged too! Theres a big gash in the bottom. I think it hit some dune fence or maybe it was from my knee after getting maytaged a few times.
I swear I was going to start the same thread haha. But I know right I made a trip down from UD, tore a ligament in my right knee yesterday so I had to bodyboard . Sad but I still got pitted and the glassiness and the pink and purple water from the sunset backdrop. And you looked over at the point and there was this awesome haze there. Yeah man that light westerly wind stood those waves up just that little extra, it was perfect. Haven't been out since Bill because of school and work, but this was a great day!
im sorry...I will not live down that one wave...but I caught another 782 waves! my arm pits are rubbed raw and bleeding from 7 hours of paddling into bombs.
haha.... OBLove, you know I had to give you a little crap for pulling back on that one wave... Sorry about that That was a ridiculous barrel, and prob wise not to go, but everyone cleared out to let you take it!
sunday- joined 10+ early birds at dawn for 3 hours.solid head high sets with bigger ones coming thru' once in a while. Got a few before it got way too crowded-3 guys to a wave and so on.....ended up going two piers south defitinely less crowded and more spread out. finally saw some rights coming in and got a bomb that changed my perspective on my own surfing-turns out i can do it!! it felt so good to stomp my feet at the bottom turn and pump(for my life) came out the back laughing at everything soooo high. At hour 5 my shoulders locked up so i headed in on a nice left that decided to close out on me when i wasnt looking but thats ok, i was still laughing.
Monday- woke up at 8 with a headache from the beer drinking, checked it down the street,and went out to chest to head high waves which quickly got rid of my headache. or maybe it was the sun, or the beautiful weather, or the fact i was solo choosing waves. ate an awesome breakfast thinking about taking the longboard out for the afternoon.
I hope everyone had so much fun this weekend of grand waves. stay positive and healthy for wind,tides,and swells will come together again soon for us to enjoy.