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  1. Dec 9, 2009, 10:33 PM #1
    LOSTsoul
    LOSTsoul is offline Senior Member
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    12/9/09 Afternoon

    HUGE and Clean in Monmouth County. Paddled out around 3:30. Took 3 tries to get out, finally caught a lull and a free ride in a nice little rip. Got out. Waited. Eventually a monster outside set came..3rd wave lined up, committed to it, stood up, near vertical drop..leaned back too much....wipe out!..got pulled back up and around..GOT POUNDED...found the bottom..sprang to the surface like a seal trying to avoid a great white! Paddled in. Done for the day. Save my life and energy till tomorrow morning!

    peace out.

    ps. how'd y'all fare today? stories?
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  2. Dec 10, 2009, 01:06 AM #2
    bodyboardNJ
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    where did you go out, i checked it at spring lake and didnt see a soul out and it look pretty close to impossible to get out so i just left the board in the garage. hopefully tomoro will be good
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  3. Dec 10, 2009, 01:24 AM #3
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    capesurfer
    capesurfer is offline Senior Member
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    Not that you jersey guys care about delmarva, but here's how it went for me:
    Checked OC in the morning - heavy, dumpy, drifty, gnarly waves, no one out. Decided on heading up north a bit. Delaware was good most of the day, but winds switched hard SSW/S later in the afternoon, chopping it back up. Solid head high sets, a few larger. Got tired of paddling around at NIRI, checked bethany, a bit smaller there, semi-clean, hit OCMD for the afternoon. Surfed til dark up north, around 118, only guys out, chest-head high, some sets overhead. A lot of big long wall closeouts. Drifty. Left me wanting more. Had one good barrel - stoked on that. Overall a good day, but leaves one wishing for west winds and head high barrelling waves for the am...(doubtful )

    Winds appear to have switched west around 8pm, hopefully since there is a lil more size in the water than anticipated we'll have some solid surf for dawn patrol. Early bird gets the worm for tomorrow, get on it early or not at all!!

    Sucks that it's probably going off right now and i'm sitting on my couch with my macbook .
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  4. Dec 10, 2009, 01:26 AM #4
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    capesurfer
    capesurfer is offline Senior Member
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    Oh and the vibe at NIRI was awesome! haven't been up there in a year, everyone was hooting and hollering, solid lines and some big peaks coming in ~ 8 foot+ faces on some. Didn't really know anyone cept big wave dave, but everyone was really friendly, a great time!
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  5. Dec 10, 2009, 01:41 AM #5
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    Swellinfo
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    Quote Originally Posted by capesurfer View Post
    Not that you jersey guys care about delmarva, but here's how it went for me:
    Checked OC in the morning - heavy, dumpy, drifty, gnarly waves, no one out. Decided on heading up north a bit. Delaware was good most of the day, but winds switched hard SSW/S later in the afternoon, chopping it back up. Solid head high sets, a few larger. Got tired of paddling around at NIRI, checked bethany, a bit smaller there, semi-clean, hit OCMD for the afternoon. Surfed til dark up north, around 118, only guys out, chest-head high, some sets overhead. A lot of big long wall closeouts. Drifty. Left me wanting more. Had one good barrel - stoked on that. Overall a good day, but leaves one wishing for west winds and head high barrelling waves for the am...(doubtful )

    Winds appear to have switched west around 8pm, hopefully since there is a lil more size in the water than anticipated we'll have some solid surf for dawn patrol. Early bird gets the worm for tomorrow, get on it early or not at all!!

    Sucks that it's probably going off right now and i'm sitting on my couch with my macbook .
    I guess you don't have a pair of night vision goggles
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  6. Dec 10, 2009, 01:43 AM #6
    LOSTsoul
    LOSTsoul is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by bodyboardNJ View Post
    where did you go out, i checked it at spring lake and didnt see a soul out and it look pretty close to impossible to get out so i just left the board in the garage. hopefully tomoro will be good
    long branch area! total carnage.
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  7. Dec 10, 2009, 01:55 AM #7
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    capesurfer
    capesurfer is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swellinfo View Post
    I guess you don't have a pair of night vision goggles
    a few floodlights would suffice..
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  8. Dec 10, 2009, 02:12 PM #8
    firstnamelastname
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    VB was going off pretty much all morning. 15-20 kt offshore winds which produced chest to head high barrels...
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  9. Dec 10, 2009, 03:28 PM #9
    mOtion732
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    lost soul, iwas in mon cty and my afternoon was pretty much exactly like yours. ****ing gnarly ****. wasn't clean though by nay means. there was a seabreeze in teh afternoon which totally sucked. if it was offshore it would have been so much more manageable. 8ft dead drops aren't my idea of fun. saw a couple guys killing it though
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  10. Dec 11, 2009, 02:49 PM #10
    Northbeach
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    Quote Originally Posted by capesurfer View Post
    Oh and the vibe at NIRI was awesome! haven't been up there in a year, everyone was hooting and hollering, solid lines and some big peaks coming in ~ 8 foot+ faces on some. Didn't really know anyone cept big wave dave, but everyone was really friendly, a great time!
    ....If only all this stayed true from may - sept we'd be in business.
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