What do you remeber from you first time surfing??? What time of year was it ? What type of board where you riding??
I was about 13 and I bought Blue and Black Rip Curl 5/4/3 Front zip that must have been from 1982 it was too big and the left leg was dry rotted. I bought a used 8'2 ashton fun board I got from Kona Sports for 125 dollars ( they saw me coming a mile away LOL)
The first time I went out was in Febuary at Broadway . I got worked so hard my first couple of waves and I family friend asked me what was I thinking starting at this time of year. He gave me a few tip and after that I caught my first wave . I looked so outa place and I was up for a whole 5 seconds . I drove home on my moped with a numb left leg and a smile on my face. I was hooked and when I got home my dad must found out that I went out and I was grounded for a month but It was well worth it
I think of that day and how my I have progressed since then .
I had a conversation with a friends I surf with and we all had a good laugh at our selves tonight
july 31 i rode a 6'1 retro fish with a magic box fin setup. it was a single fin its a really fun board to ride and i stood up and rode like 2 waves barely ha just went straight with the whitewash but from that day on i was hooked
Summer 1979...Bethany. 5'10 red/orange sunburst Haut twin fin that was really beat up and thick. Knee high waves breaking close in...dont remember getting to my feet. Figured out later that summer that getting a ride to 28th st. OCMD was more worth it.
knee to waist folly beach, SC in 1999. was riding a used 5"11 Tim Nolte shortboard and went out with my best friends older brother who was from Oahu and was a big wave charger. He was and still is a huge influence on my surfing.
1975 Sandy Hook NJ. My friends family owned a thrift shop and they had a round nosed 7 foot single fin for sale. He talked his father into letting us have it. We went to the beach everyday in the summer usually arriving by 7am and would stay until dark. I would have a brown paper grocery bag stuffed with anything I could grab to eat. One day when we were tired of exploring the holly forests we grabbed the board and went out into some knee high waves. I stood on my first wave (knee high whitewater) and thought it was the best thing ever. Eventually graduated to a styrafoam finless surfboard which was the pits but that first day was the best we stayed in the water for 3 hours or so handing the board back and forth.
Don't remember what board exactly, but my buddy who is no longer alive bought one from a surf shop the summer prior, and he was given a couple in exchange for a stereo with a cd player. That was back in 1987, and cd players were a big deal, and new at the time. It was Fall of 87 he gave his little brother who to this day is my best friend a board, and me a board just to try out. At the time I had no concept of a good board thats why the board doesn't have an impact on my memory now. I will never forget, because this was during the infamous syringe tide epidemic. My buddy still swears he was poked with an old needle haha. I was 16 at the time, and it was around early November before thanksgiving. It was rainy, and cold, and nasty, and the water may have been 62, 63 degrees, but we were the only ones in the water that day which was great. Had we not we would have been ridiculed to no end, because we were in board shorts. This was in Long Branch New Jersey, and I don't even know the name of the street it was on, but I know how to get there. It was the south end.
I remember the water being really choppy, and sloppy, and it was not the best session, but we didn't know any better. My Uncle lived in Lakewood at the time so we hit up Manasquan Inlet the next weekend. The conditions were better, and there was a lot of guys out that day, and I actually met a guy who became my roommate 15 years later. They were really nice, and welcoming of us, but they had a laugh at our get up or lack thereof. Haha.