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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Fenwick Island
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by Darealm View Post
    To me surfing is more than just being on the wave. I enjoy every single aspect of the sport - from pre-session stretches, to watching the surf to locate a good paddle out spot, to timing the sets on the paddle out, to the thrill of being in the lineup and watching the rollers come in when it's going off, to a well executed duck dive when a massive lip is about to snap you in half...and then there is the actually feeling I get when riding the wave which can not really be compared to anything else.The actual act of surfing a wave is most fun to me when I am racing down the line on a wall or getting covered up. I've never been one to try and pull airs or shred the waves to pieces; I prefer to just flow with the wave, get some speed, and do some nice smooth turns up and down the face with the occasional cutback. Truly, the rush comes from being one with the ocean's energy...most people who don't surf think that's some hippie **** (maybe it is)...but every wave rider knows what I'm talking about..
    Well put , says it all good on ya Darealm

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Howell
    Posts
    127
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by Darealm View Post
    To me surfing is more than just being on the wave. I enjoy every single aspect of the sport - from pre-session stretches, to watching the surf to locate a good paddle out spot, to timing the sets on the paddle out, to the thrill of being in the lineup and watching the rollers come in when it's going off, to a well executed duck dive when a massive lip is about to snap you in half...and then there is the actually feeling I get when riding the wave which can not really be compared to anything else.The actual act of surfing a wave is most fun to me when I am racing down the line on a wall or getting covered up. I've never been one to try and pull airs or shred the waves to pieces; I prefer to just flow with the wave, get some speed, and do some nice smooth turns up and down the face with the occasional cutback. Truly, the rush comes from being one with the ocean's energy...most people who don't surf think that's some hippie **** (maybe it is)...but every wave rider knows what I'm talking about..
    being one with the oceans energy is truly what its all about. this was a great explaination.

  3. #13
    i agree and i too believe that surfing is a lifestyle like darealm said, i enjoy the thrill of rolling up to a break, checking the spot, throwing on my wetsuit, waxing the board, paddling out, and then the wave. for me i get excited every time i visit some place new. i also love how you can go to the same break for a year and it will never be exactly the same

  4. #14
    Surfing doesn't feel like anything special to me. The best feeling i can relate to surfing would be when i purchase a cup of coffee at Cumberland Farms on the way to work in the morning. Sometimes i get a boner on a good wave.

    -SLADE

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    WB: C-street and Mase and Sweetwater and all sorts of chill places around WB. Its rad.
    Posts
    559
    I think there's been a thread on this same topic, or at least a similar topic, something to the effect of "how do u feel wen u ride a wave", in the past. I posted an excellent, intellectual replay that I'm very proud of where I said, in a nutshell, that the basis of a person's love for the sensation of riding waves stems from the ammesiatic effects the wave plays on the mind; in layman's terms, when you ride a wave, it's nearly impossible to think about or remember anything other than the wave right in front of you. That's what surfing feels like to me: absolutely nothing. A dopamine-fueled cleaning of the proverbial slate, which is an incredibly purifying and restoring feeling. That's why you love to surf, that's why I love to surf, that's why every human being who has ever caught the surf bug has loved it with every fiber of their existence.

    It is a feeling if escape, of rebellion, a feeling of affirmation that you know something the Man In The Grey Flannel Suit doesn't know. Surfing is your trump card on life and that's why you love it. And that's exactly what it feels like.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    North Wildwood ,Nj
    Posts
    3,109
    Images
    5
    I agree form the time I step on the beach till the time is step off it seems like time stands still . I dont think about anything exept riding waves

  7. #17
    sorry i thought there was already a post on this but i didnt know what to call it to search for and since i figured i couldnt remember it may have just been that i remembered wrong

  8. #18

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Cape May Co, NJ
    Posts
    472
    I have a fairly stressful job. When I'm surfing nothing else is on my mind and when I'm done if feel calm and relaxed. Never got road rage after a session no matter how bad the traffic was.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Central, NJ
    Posts
    1,082
    Images
    27
    I'll take a day of perfect waves (perfect to me) over having sex with any girl (tho I don't have to worry about that because of my amazing girlfriend).

    Enough said.