on a mackin waist high wave. lol, unreal went straight to emergency room. got a few stitches right under the eye. about a 1 inch slice. i fell off the board and it came back and rammed me in the face. This is the second time since the summer i got a face injury in knee to waist high waves. i have surfed for 20 years and this is the second face injury. fun fun...at least i have a bottle of vicadins.Caught a few really long lefts at least, so i'm not bummed at all.




Caught a few really long lefts at least, so i'm not bummed at all.
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