Right now in the Northeast is cold, snowing, and f*^&*^g flat. Other than traveling, reading a good surf book keeps me stoked. I recomend "All for a few perfect waves." and "In search of Captan Zero" all recomendations are apreciated.
Reaaaaaaally enjoyed In Search of Captain Zero, and Caught Inside. Would also recommend West of Jesus (dont be deterred by the name), it's a good read. -http://www.amazon.com/West-Jesus-Surfing-Science-Origins/dp/1596910518
Currently working on the Dora book, All for a Few Perfect Waves. Haven't gotten all too into it yet.
One of my favorite's is Eddie Would Go, a biography of Eddie Aikau but also talks Hawaii's surfing history, really well written.
Pipe Dreams, the book by Slater, is also pretty good. Interesting to get inside his head a little see how he grew up and the beginnings to his surfing.
I just finished the Dora book. Good read, but might have been better if he would of told the story. Either way fascinating character, they should make a movie. I'm sure he would hate that!!!! Just got "Caught inside" looks interesting and I'm about to order the Eddie book. I read the Slater book and it was nice to get a glipse into the mindset of such an acomplished person. He talks about charging big waves and how he overcame the fear of certain dangerous spots. Good read, check it out.
I know this is irrelevant but the book "Suffer in Silence" is a good book about Navy SEALs going through training in Cali. Its pretty intense. They state the true **** that happens at BUDS and isnt shown on television
i never read until lately over the snow storm i was boered of COD...Pipe Dreams by kelly slater was pretty good and Big Sur by Jack Kerouac is also a good book along with Scar Tissue. Only one is a surf book.