Nike, Hollister, Target, Channell, Walmart , Fox, Ralph Lauren I could go on but these are the lastest and greatest of companies who are only involved in surfing for there own personal gain and dont care if they exploit surifng and leave it in shambles after they sucked the origionality out of itOriginally Posted by staystoked
Maybe its the bad economy, but since I live in arguably the most crowded surfing area in the country, it began getting really really bad. It maxed out about 5 years ago. There was not a human that lived in the City of SD that didn't own a surfboard. And by god, they showed up at the beach everyday....
But in the past 2 years, the reverse has been happening. Less Brazilians showing up ruining our summer. Less kooks from Boston and NYC that moved out here and walk around in redsox hats and foam boards under their arms...
Maybe the economy will bring more people back to the water, but for once, I think most people lately have "tried" surfing, and 9 out of 10 people don't have the dedication to EVER stick with it... So I think we made it through a tough decade of wannabes and invasion of our lifestyles, but when the smoke clears, we are the only ones left....
I mean, OC MD will always be filled with ridiculous crowds all summer, but do I think a bunch of guys visiting from the street of Baltimore are going to start charging all the waves? No, I think that will never happen. Its a novelty for most. Its a life for us.
I am excited to say that I absolutely disagree! I've got so many different ways to improve the forecasting... and working diligently to get there.
sick quote.
all it takes is one major box office movie hit of some celeb catching phonie waves to insppire alllll the koooks out there to invade again
i love you and this site
i belive that life and evolution goes in a big circle, in board evolution it went, 1. the "olo" finless boards 2. alaia's 3. tom blake cigar 4.Redwood longboards 5. foam longboards 6. more egg-like boards 7. the spoon 8. lightning bolt single fin 9. M R twin fin 10. the thruster..... this isnot exact but close, i did leave out a cuople, but look where we are now, back to finless alaia's... when were all 60's-70's(hopefully) years old, the groms then are gonna say,"how the hell did you ride that 3 finned board shaped like that?!" like how some of us question the designs a long time ago....
Hah that's so sick! And true. Sometimes I have trouble being optimistic about stuff, but nothing's ever going to stop me from doing what I love.
Another thing to think about... wetsuits are becoming warmer. More people are surfing in the winter/spring. I saw some guy out in early April last year with a hood and a freakin SURFACE board trying to paddle out in a head high g swell! You have to wonder if this guy had any motivation.
My dad w/ 38+ years of surfing experience (HI 3yrs, PR, OBX, and of course NJ to this day) has told me numerous times.. it's not what it used to be. Winter surfing was never this crowded... especially in the 70's and 80's.
its crazy to consider how surfers charged big waves back in the day with slipper sketchy non stable boards that gave there feet splinter .. plusss no leach!!! if u wipeout u gota swim back in and fetch ur board for another crazy wave with a heavy bad balancing board
hahaha yes!
Nice. I love to hear that. I am sure you have all kinds of cool ideas. I just meant the following: Maybe there are better ways to get data out to people, I.E. this site, but for the most part, NOAA (where my dad works ) and all the other huge agencies are kind of maxed out as far as weather data and prediction. You can see a swell from thousands od miles away, but until it takes its course and gets close, there is nothing that NOAA or swellinfo etc can really do but wait, and adjust as the storms shift. But to my knowledge, there haven't been too many huge advancements in recent years, and I dont see that changing too much...
I mean, especially out here. I can see a swell a week in advance, and basically within a foot or two, we all know how big it will be. What breaks to go to based on angle and wind... I mean, we all do the same thing. But places back east are MUCH more ahrd to predict. It changes daily, and I can't think of a mathematical way to keep up with predicting dramatic shifts and being right. You can base your forecasts after analyzing tons of different swells from the past that form in a simliar area, similar size etc,... but you know how all of those factors are a toss up when live swell is rollings... Im just saying that you guys do great at it already. I don't think there is much more you guys can do at this point...
I ran a forecasting site about 8 years ago (sixonenine.com/net)... and i eventually stopped because all my data was being pulled from the same sources as everyone else, so I was just re-inventing the wheel each day. And once I realized everyone had easy access to this stuff, then I gave up....
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