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  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by MATT JOHNSON View Post
    Nike, Hollister, Target, Channell, Walmart , Fox, Ralph Lauren I could go on but these are the lastest and greatest of companies who are only involved in surfing for there own personal gain and dont care if they exploit surifng and leave it in shambles after they sucked the origionality out of it
    i ****ing hate hollister. my friend has a hollister sweatshirt that says hollister surf team on it..it disgusts me i make fun of it to the point where she wont were it anymore. they're already trying to do that to surfing.

    I think what we should do is all we can and keep originality in it. Try as hard as you can to keep the sport full of friendly competition and peace, base it around a general love of the feeling surfing gives you. When you see kooks in the water, yea it sucks they're annoying but try to each them how to get better that way you don't have a bunch of idiots who can't surf in your line up, instead you have a bunch of good surfers who have respect for you and your break. I surf because i love the ocean and It's an escape to a better world. Don't shut other people out from that, let them in. How can we sit and complain about other people ruining the sport by trying to join it when the generation before us lert us join it ? hollister you can go to hell, i hate your company, but the surfers left who still surf because they just love the surf and onthing else matters need to spread that mindset on to the next generation of surfers that way our sport doesn't become over run with big brand companies, crowded breaks of competitive assholes dropping in on eachother left and right and firghting over waves instead of sharing them.

  2. #32
    But I do understand where you are coming from. I took my 5’11 potatochip to OC MD last summer and took it out in knee to waist high surf all week. There were times when I almost got out of the water and just karate chopped my own board in half… I needed like a 10’er that day… But like I said, I understand logging it or riding old as$ boards when its ankle high, but once you even get past waist high, you will never catch me on anything but a thruster…. High performance surfing is impossible on old out dated vehicles.[/QUOTE]


    dude don't knock retro boards. i have a 5'10 retro fish quad and i absolutely love it in the summer time. took it out on a day that was heavy and hollow and got shacked every wave haha my friend let me borrow his firewire for hte rest of the day and i hit so many sweet barrels. surfing is about understanding what is good for you, so just let people surf what they want. i love longboards and retro fishes but im a shortboarder at heart i learned on a 5'8 thin beat up old board in knee high choppy summer time trash. surfing is surfing eitehr way though, so for those of you who can hit a 360 backflip in the air thats ****ing crazy and congrats to you, and for those of you who ride longboards and like to just glide down a wave and enjoy it do it then. don't critize everyone else because they don't surf like you though, learn to appreciate every style of surfing because they all contribute to our sport. i surf all styles, im better at some than others but i enjoy every aspect of it and every moment im in the water and i think that's what really maters. its not about whos the best whos getting the biggest airs or the longest rides, its about who is having the most fun. if your not having fun then your not surfing right

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swellinfo View Post
    I am excited to say that I absolutely disagree! I've got so many different ways to improve the forecasting... and working diligently to get there.
    You da man!

    So in class last night, we watched a short video about advancements in life... and they said by 2049, a $1000 computer will have greater knowledge, intellectualism, everything, more than the entire race! So one computer will be smarter then every human being combined..

  4. #34

    great post

    Hey this has bee a great post. I have enjoyed the info and opinions. I believe the future of surfing will be much like the past. There have been highs and lows of modern surfing over the past 60 years and that will continue to be. Even with the developments in the sport and the mass marketing it continues to be a more counter-culture or niche sport. Yes lineups are crowded, but take a look at any Jepsen, Brown or Dittrich films from the 50-70s and look at huntington pier, malibu, rincon, dana (rip), north shore, etc and you understand you are not the first knuckle head whos entire existence revolves around the creation of swell and then the sliding down the end result.

    Surfing a pure activity that puts man against nature. It is meant to be enjoyed in the moment and with others. If you allow yourself to get frustrated by elements of the activity that are out of your control, you miss the opportunities of peak enjoyment. The future is the past and past the future. All the things that were present in each decade will be there in the future, just more applified because there are more people on the earth and more money and resources. So yes, kooks, mass media maketing, localism, better board design, forcasting, etc will all continue as long as there are knuckle heads like all of us that are either surfing right now or thinking about when will get a session in next.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Dude, that Bonzer looks freaking sick man... See, that I could work with. To me, the bonzer is a modified thruster. The middle fin is what I like... I have only ridden one once, and it was pretty fun, but one session wasn't enough for me to really feel it out... But in my opinion, that board you showed me is a very new age model. It has some dimensions that remind me of the retro boards, but that thing looks pretty high tech... The fishes that I really dont like are the ones with only two fins and no middle. the old 70s model. And the new Quads have the same issues. Without that middle fin, the fins lock in nicely but it has a squirely feel to me...

    I think that board would be sick.. That looks exactly like my 5'10 epoxy Fish Thruster I was talking about. Same kinda board, just with a standard thruster setup...

    Answer me this: Does that larger middle fin have a tendency to stick in the lip through a turn. A lot of my basic turns, I try and really swing back around and have my board in a reverse position to let the fins release as the lip falls out under me. I like the free fall turning and sliding my tail a lot, so I would ASSUME, that the longer middle fin and the bonzer setup would kind of help lock the board in, rather than promote any release of the fins or tail.... Am i correct in that thought?

    Grom Surfer: No body was "knocking" retro boards. My main point, is that some of my friends, who are really talented surfers went through a phaze of riding fish that were ACTUALLY built in the 70s. And it made their surfing look really bad to me. Some people can pull it off, but really, when we are surfing decent waves, it destroyed their style. Thats just my opinion... If you like those boards, ride them. They just have not been for me at this point. Ride whatever you like. That is your choice, your style. To each their own.

  6. #36
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    Every once in awhile I like to grab a surfboard (any particular length or fin combination will do), go down to the shore, paddle out and catch a few waves. I enjoy it. And I never once think about corporations, whos sponsoring who, what the pro rankings are, whether my style sucks, whether anyones watching me, etc.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    in the grace of the most holy FSM
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    Quote Originally Posted by zach619 View Post
    Dude, that Bonzer looks freaking sick man... See, that I could work with. To me, the bonzer is a modified thruster. The middle fin is what I like... I have only ridden one once, and it was pretty fun, but one session wasn't enough for me to really feel it out... But in my opinion, that board you showed me is a very new age model. It has some dimensions that remind me of the retro boards, but that thing looks pretty high tech... The fishes that I really dont like are the ones with only two fins and no middle. the old 70s model. And the new Quads have the same issues. Without that middle fin, the fins lock in nicely but it has a squirely feel to me...

    Answer me this: Does that larger middle fin have a tendency to stick in the lip through a turn. A lot of my basic turns, I try and really swing back around and have my board in a reverse position to let the fins release as the lip falls out under me. I like the free fall turning and sliding my tail a lot, so I would ASSUME, that the longer middle fin and the bonzer setup would kind of help lock the board in, rather than promote any release of the fins or tail.... Am i correct in that thought?
    that particular board came about b/c, while i feel that twin keel fish are very fast, bonzers are faster, esp. thru turns. i had a standard 6'3" bonzer that i rode in better surf & neglected my fish. as i really prefer to ride boards w/ the shortest rail line possible, i took my fish to brian wynn & explained to him what i had in mind. that was the result. so it IS very fish influenced...the front third of the board was taken from a template he made of the board.

    the bonzer is completely unrelated to the thruster as far as fin set up geneology goes. malcolm & duncan campbell built the first 3 fin bonzer in 1971 in oxnard, ca. as a solution to their short, stubby style boards spinning out at the bottom of waves. the side runners were originally intended to help the board stay on the wave...eventually the single-double concave was added (around '72, i think) & the rest is history. so the bonzer is a direct descendant of the single fin. the thruster, meanwhile, came about in 1980 as simon anderson's attempt to counter mark richards' domination of competitive surfing. the first thrusters were more like what we today would call a "twin w/ a trailer". simon's big guy & had trouble making the twin fins of the day work for him in small surf. so the thruster is, evolutionarily speaking, a relative of the twin fin.

    as far as the center fin...i've been riding them so long, i don't honestly notice it. i'm bigger, so i use a 6.5" center fin...i'd say a 6" would be a better choice for you. i believe you can do anything on a bonzer that you can do on a thruster. tail wafts & slides may take more effort, but you can do them. that big center fin is just going to take more effort to break out of the wave. but i've seen them done & have done them by accident when throwing a big hack off the top.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromsurfer123 View Post
    i ****ing hate hollister. my friend has a hollister sweatshirt that says hollister surf team on it..it disgusts me i make fun of it to the point where she wont were it anymore. they're already trying to do that to surfing.

    I think what we should do is all we can and keep originality in it. Try as hard as you can to keep the sport full of friendly competition and peace, base it around a general love of the feeling surfing gives you. When you see kooks in the water, yea it sucks they're annoying but try to each them how to get better that way you don't have a bunch of idiots who can't surf in your line up, instead you have a bunch of good surfers who have respect for you and your break. I surf because i love the ocean and It's an escape to a better world. Don't shut other people out from that, let them in. How can we sit and complain about other people ruining the sport by trying to join it when the generation before us lert us join it ? hollister you can go to hell, i hate your company, but the surfers left who still surf because they just love the surf and onthing else matters need to spread that mindset on to the next generation of surfers that way our sport doesn't become over run with big brand companies, crowded breaks of competitive assholes dropping in on eachother left and right and firghting over waves instead of sharing them.

    Well said.

  9. #39
    Join Date
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    Yeah, that is some good background history of the fins. I really got into surfing in the late 90s so it was pretty much thurster city. Ever since kelly started riding for Merrick, that is all I knew... When I came to San Diego, I started working for a restaurant that was opened on shelter island back in the 60s. It turns out that the owner and his friends, all in their sixties now, basically invented surfing sunset cliffs back in the 50s and 60s while Skip fry and the boys were riding la jolla. I got to sit down with the whole crew of guys. Mouse, Lance Morton etc... they all had their old photo books, of them sitting in point loma hand sawing their wooden planks with no fins. Photos of them foot dragging 12 foot planks at Garbage back in the day... Amazing stuff. I got to hold one of the boards, it weighed about 500 pounds... Luscombs (named after Rob Luscumbs, RIP) and many other spots along the cliffs are all named after these guys, so spending some time with them was amazing. The one thing they were all really stoked on though, surprisingly enough, were all the new technologies. They weve raving about the kids that ride for plus one that are doing rodeo flips at the OB pier. It wwas cool to hear them all embrace the new school, while talking about where it all came from....

    Like I said, that bonzer photo would be the board I would grab if sunset cliffs were 6-8 feet and I went to Abs or something. Nice big, clean faces, occasional barrels sections. Waves made for speed and carves... That is how that board would work well for me. Locking into a slower barrel or digging into a huge roundhouse and stuff. So I do agree that certain situations call for certain boards etc....

    But I am a creature of Habit. I surf the same places. Same boards. Same times. Its like clockwork. Its the old, if it aint broke, dont fix it. Im happy with the setup ive got, so I rarely think outside of that paradigm. However, I probably should broaden my horizons. I have not gotten into shaping, but that is the next step for me, and when I begin focusing on that, I have a feeling that I will be making some boards that I would never normally try out.

  10. #40
    back to the future of wetsuit innovations

    anyone got info whats in store.

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