"Surf: Waist to stomach high ENE medium period swell with occasional chest high sets."
What exactly does that mean?
other than the period this stuff pretty much means exactly what it says
waist to stomach: while surfing, the wave will be at this height (2-4ft like previously mentioned)
ENE: the swell will be coming in from the east north east (most likely from a nor easter)
medium period: the longer the period the faster the waves are (more powerful) and the more distance between each wave is. this is developed from wind over the ocean and medium means that there was a decent amount of wind/fetch over the waves (this was a very simplified explanation as i dont feel like going into the details, Micah can do that )
occasional chest high sets: this are just larger groups of waves that will be reaching the shore every once in a while.
Surf: Waist to stomach high ENE medium period swell with occasional chest high sets
referin to a 6ft person, so about 3-4 ft consistently from the front of the wave (hawaii is the only place that measures from the back, front end measurin will always be bigger than back end) but ocassionally 4-5 ft sets, always try to judge waves and get reports based on body references, its def more accurate and easier to comprehend.
ENE medium period swell means the swell is comin from the direction of ENE so itd hit a beach facing ENE dead on, usually E, NE, or N facing beaches will all take on the swell pretty well, but ur choice should depend on wind direction... medium period refers to time in seconds b/w peaks of the wave heights... imagine a drawn out sound wave on a chart or a chart of the business cycle... the shorter the periods, the more likely it is the height will decay by the time it hits the shore, it creates fickle forecasts, unfavorable winds at the shore will affect them more, these are called wind swells and are created by high pressure systems out to sea... long period swell means the winds hundreds of miles out to sea, blew in that direction longer and harder, transferin more of its energy into the wave, thereby makin the wave stronger and more likely to hold its height, and have more definite predictable sets, these are called ground swells and are created by low pressure systems out at sea... most important thing for u to understand is the longer the period, the better...
hope this helps, this is what i understand of it, if i screwed something up some1 please correct me...