this is random and i consider it to be pretty crazy . there is this spot along the james river where a ferry crosses back a forth and during the summer the tide will get super low and at one spot there use to be a fairly large island that a hurricane washed away so if the ferry is fully loaded with cars it will push a knee high wave across this sunken island as the ferry crosses across the river , now me and my brother will anchor off the island with a cooler full of beer and wait every half hour for the one ride . its not that exciting but its just really wild place to surfing has occurred
manta ( like the rays) near puerto lopez, ecuador..not only the only person in the water, i was wearing my only water clothes...a shorty wetsuit and the water was like 90.....they thought i was crazy..surf sucked but the ceviche right on the beach was excellent....
An uninhabited barrier island off the coast of Virginia. Plagues of ticks, mosquitoes, and the occasional rabid raccoon... but the setup is sweet, and when it's on, it's pretty smokin'.
Cinnimon Bay St John Virgin Islands, an odd short wave over some very ragged coral heads. It was cool to surf it though and the water was crystal clear. Also Sandy Hook NJ Back in the 70's we would sit at first jetty on super low tide, flat summer days and wait for a tanker to leave NY Harbor. When it passed we would rush into the water and wait. After about 3 minutes or so a tiny perfectly clean wave or two would come by and peel right along the jetty all the way to the beach.
Surfed a spot a couple hours North of Cabo San Lucas on the Sea of Cortez. We drove through the dessert for about an hour and a half before finally hitting the coast, then rode along the mostly uninhabited coast until we found a spot that looked like it had some potential. Pulled onto the beach to see the tide filling in over a rocky reef break and shoulder high playful rights firing down the beach for a couple hundred yards. Not one person on the beach and no one in the water except a big sea turtled which stuck around for the whole session. Ended our day on the beach with a cooler full of Sol. Pretty sweet spot.
1. Costa Rica, Little Hawaii at 8-12ft with lava reef bottom and bad weather, spooky.
2. Puerto Rico, shallow coral reef break 4-6ft. My board bumped reef on a paddle out, sea urchins everywhere. I put my hand in reef to push off before next wave came, thank god I didn't need to stand up to get off reef.
3. Rhode Island, Judith Point at 4-6ft with rocky bottom.
* Looking to surf Lewes bay beach next heavy north winds. I have seen some loggable waves pump through during strong north winds at low tide. I just want to say I surfed the bay.
* Looking to surf Bells Beach Australia in the comming months thanks to a business trip, but trip on hold right now.
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