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  1. #11
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    Nov 2007
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    I hate to say it but around hear in Maryland, many of the days that have been the most fun have been short period windswell with some size. I have seen long period swell with size that was very good but have seen more of those days maxing out the sand bars with lots of closeouts. Give me a sizable south windswell in the summer anytime over a macking hurricane groundswell for pure fun. I do like smaller groundswell with a steep south angle though.

  2. #12
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    ocean wind produced waves are 24 seconds or less.

    And, in the Atlantic, even on large Hurricane swells or the rare South Atlantic swells are 17 to 19 seconds max. The pacific allows for greater fetches and greater distances for swells to travel, and can thus have swell periods of up to 20 seconds and greater.

    When you talk about non wind produced waves, such as tides, and tsunamis, then you can talk about periods greater than 30 seconds.

  3. #13

    !

    Quote Originally Posted by Swellinfo View Post
    .
    you should teach a surfology class!!

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by epidemicepic View Post
    if you think about it.... our tides are really just 4-6 foot waves circling the earth with a 6 hour period
    yup.. that's why when it's borderline surfable (small) incoming mid tide is always best.

  5. #15
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    Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by staystoked View Post
    what would the ocean look like at 5ft@ 2 sec and 5ft @ 35 sec



    ???
    5ft @ 2 sec would probably be building storm surf

    5ft @ 35 seconds wouldn't happen

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swellinfo View Post
    ocean wind produced waves are 24 seconds or less.

    And, in the Atlantic, even on large Hurricane swells or the rare South Atlantic swells are 17 to 19 seconds max. The pacific allows for greater fetches and greater distances for swells to travel, and can thus have swell periods of up to 20 seconds and greater.

    When you talk about non wind produced waves, such as tides, and tsunamis, then you can talk about periods greater than 30 seconds.
    have you read waves and beaches? i'm reading it and i swear you're quoting it word for word ha

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mOtion732 View Post
    have you read waves and beaches? i'm reading it and i swear you're quoting it word for word ha
    no, i have not read that book.

  8. #18
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    He hasn't read it because... he wrote it.

  9. #19
    One more thing about period...this was partially implied already, but the longer the period the faster each wave moves. The shorter the period the slower it moves. By moves, I mean the velocity each wave travels toward shore. So part of the reason a longer period wave has more "power and oomph" (as mentioned earlier) is because it is actually moving faster.

    The reason those big groundswell days feel like your paddle is having a hard time keeping up with the wave, is because it really is. If you've ever traveled to a break that gets that kind of swell (for example Pacific spots), you have felt this; the whole ocean FEELS different than our east coast breaks.

    Also, the leading edge of a long period groundswell will have a longer period and will be moving faster. They're called forerunners. Once the groundswell event has hit and is in mid-stage, the period will drop a bit, although it can still be very good.

  10. #20

    soooooooooooooooo

    so bottom line its better to have a higher swell period ....5 ft@20sec is much better then 5ft@7sec

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