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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Brick Township, New Jersey, United States
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    Quote Originally Posted by staystoked View Post
    so bottom line its better to have a higher swell period ....5 ft@20sec is much better then 5ft@7sec
    yes, but it will be much, much more powerful

    chances are that if the period is that big, it wouldnt say 5ft tho


    for example: personally, i prefer a day of 3ft @ 11sec to a day of 5ft @ 6sec

  2. #22
    True, 3ft @ 11 sec will be a better and probably bigger wave than 5ft @ 6 sec.

    For example, 4ft @ 14 sec will be a bigger wave than 6ft @ 8 sec or even 7 ft @ 5 sec. And of course, have more speed, more power, and usually better shape.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Monmouth County
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    3 ft at 11 sec would probably be the tail end of a hurricane swell..

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Lewes, DE
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    On the east coast, many of our standard beach breaks do not handle the longer period swells very well. In Delmarva, my home, the medium period swells are generally best (9 - 12 seconds). Anything longer than that, tends to close out.

    Reef breaks tend to be much better with the longer period swells. This is because with the sand bottom breaks, the sandbars are always moving around and generally much more dynamic. Reefs on the other hand, are static (not moving).

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Monmouth County
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    bill had a super long period. remember how that worked out with the sandbars?

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    420
    Alright... I think it needs to be explained again, i think some people are not understanding... A swell period is the amount of time it takes 2 CONSECUTIVE CRESTS... To pass over the same point.

    Picture a Pole in the water... A piling or something of the sort. The Swell period would be the time between when one wave hits the piling, and when the wave behind it hits the piling.

    It is not the "Time Between Sets," But the time between each wave in a set.

    Also a longer period swell will produce a longer wave face, making them great for point breaks. A short period swell tends to be more peaky and 'disorganized' if you will, making them better suited for beach breaks.

    That being said, here on the east coast we are usually surfing between 7 and 12 second swell periods, and usually on beachbreaks, So the difference between swell periods is usually hardly noticeable. However if you go somewhere with lots swell periods and lots of different setups (points, reefs, beachies), the difference between swell periods and their 'surfability' will become as clear as day.

    Well hope that makes sense.... hahahaha

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Chadwick
    Posts
    1,297
    my break faces east,is exposed,is a series of little sandbar beachbreaks,so we need a shorter period peaky swell,which usually means a windswell,plus the right tide and the right sandbar for the angle.that's why we get good waves in the Summer when most other spots are flat.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Chadwick
    Posts
    1,297
    this thread is so good i almost comprehend some of it,seriously,thank you

  9. #29

    ??

    i feel like this tuesday when i go surfing gd willing. That if i sit in the line up, and i count how much time goes by when one wave passes in front up me during a set, then wait for another to pass me if in the same set. I feel that each set has a different timeing, and a little off from the forcast.

  10. #30

    ?????????????????????////

    is a wave at @3sec move faster then a then a wave @ 10sec since the wave doesnt take so long to get there ????????

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