The BIBLE John 6:19 When they had rowed about three or four miles, they saw Jesus approaching the boat, walking on the water; and they were frightened.
Stop the clown act, eh? We don't want your proselytizing taking over a surfing forum. The person wants to know about surfing reads. Are you that desperate that you need to hijack the thread, yet again??
Admin! WTF. You hook people for minor stuff, what about this psycho naming himself after jeeeeeeezus h effing keerist hijacking every thread for his own use??
I read ALOT and especially when work pulls me far from the Ocean I read more surf/travel books than I really should but here is what is currently on my kindle with surf inspired themes. Also pick up an overpriced subscription to the surfers journal for some great surf stories/articles related to surfing, board shaping, and just the general feeling out there when you can't be.
Fierce Heart: The story of Makaha and the soul of Hawaiian surfing by Stuart Coleman
Eddie Would Go: The story of eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave Surfing: also by Stuart Coleman
Kook: What Surfing taught me about love, live, and catching the perfect wave by Peter Heller
Saltwater Buddha: A surfers guide to find Zen on the Sea by Yogis, Jaimal
Island Explorer: Surfing, Sailing, and Exploring beyond Sumatra and the Mentawai Islands: by Dan Scheffler
The Kooks Guide to Surfing: by Jason Borte (funny read!)
Californios: a surf noir collection: by Jeff McElroy (some good some bad short collection)
Surfing's Greatest Misadventures by Paul Diamond (same.. some good some bad collection of surf stories)
The Lost Coast by Drew Kampion (more bad than good surf stories)
That should get you started... if you want more or more information on them let me know. Big fan of Stuart Coleman's books and after reading them I started making pineapple swipe using the old Hawaiian recipe and my wife said I started speaking pigeon again. HA!
I traveled around looking to learn the hidden ways of the world. With true surf stories, and descriptions of wellness routines; this book communicates the knowledge I found.
Book now available on amazon: http://amzn.com/B00ESIAGCW
If you read; please consider reviewing on amazon, or liking book page on facebook. Thank you.
My blog: http://llavealhighway.com/
Check out "Tales From An Endless Summer" by Bruce Novotny. Surf fiction taking place on LBI. Soul surfer confronts life and seeks deeper meanings through his surfing. Refreshing take on the notion of "stoke" or should I say "STOKE".
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell... by Chas Smith
Just started reading this and it's awesome. It's about the North Shore and all the dirty seedy sh* that goes down..
I don' see how Chas will ever go back and not get killed. I'm only 5 chapters in and he's talking about Eddie Rothman and his thug tactics.
He hates Mick Fanning too and says some pretty funny stuff about him.
bustin' down the door by rabbit Bartholomew is excellent,as is nat's nat and that's that by nat young, and mp-the life of Michael Peterson by sean doherty,and the way of the surfer by drew kampion, but the best book since it is Sunday I must say is The Holy Bible which is not really a book but is the Word of God.