A couple people mentioned "Salt Water Buddha." It's pretty good and is a quick read. "The Wave" by Susan Casey is phenomenal. "Crazy for the Storm" by Norman Ollestad is also a good one.
The Wave is a really great book. especially the chapter entitled "Egypt". There was an interview with Laird and his description of the jet ski getting away wasn't as dramatic as Susan Casey's. Of course, he calls 100' waves 50'.
Just finished "Orange Sunshine" by Nicholas Schou.
Crazy story of some 60's surfers/heads who are smuggling Afghani Hash in surfboards. They attempted to "turn on" the world through LSD and higher plane shenanigans. Jimi Hendrix, Timothy Leary, Owsley and Mike Hynson (Endless Summer) feature prominently.
These guys were whack. Guns, girls, and the eras finest chemicals! The Hippie Mafia! How can you go wrong?
the wave is interesting, but i really preferred ghost wave by chris dixon. much more balanced, paints a better overall picture of big wave surfing, &, IMO, reads less like a monument to laird's ego. but then, i'm not really a fan of laird.
saltwater buddha sound interesting...i'll have to give that a look.
surf for your life, mick fanning's autobiography, is intersting as well. i know a lot of people think he's robosurfer or whatever, but i really became a fan after reading it. same thing for slater's pipe dreams, occy's autobiography, & eddie aikau's biography. it gives you just a little peek behind the curtain at the real people & what their lives have been like.
north shore chronicles is a good collection of short stories, as is good things love water.
lots of good surf books out there if you know where to look.
I love surfing and specially in the winters because in this time the atmosphere is quiet pleasant with cold waves. To get more trics about surfing i use to study various books and here is the list of those :-
1. Liquid Comfort -A surf story
2. Tapping the source
3. Return by water -A surf story and adventure
this is the list of some books i use to study to get more knowledge about surf.