First- I really love this site. This is my primary source of forecast info for my surfing ventures- which are mostly near Wilmington, NC so far. I appreciate the quality and the technical /scientific nature of the info, but also how it is presented in such a user friendly way- so a Big Thanks!
My post is sort of twofold..when I am not out trying to get better at surfing, I find myself looking for good surf related things to read. I read In Search of Captain Zero by Allan Weisbecker and really enjoyed it. He has a new novel coming out (click here if you want to check it out or even pre-order). so I wanted to p*** that along, but also....
....what other books out there am I missing that anyone can recommend? Thanks!
One thing about surfing you can learn not to do is chase something that is not there. The books, the magazines, the videos can often lead surfers to something that is not there...happiness. After a lot of years of chasing crap swells, buying crap mags, competing in crap comps, I realzied I needed to spend a lot more of my time/energy on education and becoming a complete watermen. Try a book called "Rich Dad, Poor Dad!" Someday you will have a property in Nicaragua or a Yacht in Indo? I stopped chasing the pipe dreams and I surf better waves now!!! Kelly Played golf and wrote music, now he is winning with a smile!. Occy lost weight, did triathlons, competed in lifesvaing, got to know his family...won a world championship...smiling! Just a lil note...take it or leave it!
thanks for all ideas. I read most of Kem Nunn's stuff since the original post too. OBLove- your points are well taken and I totally agree. Its just that i am so stoked about surfing, I just was looking for things that gave me a broader view. I focus a lot on learning to be a better surfer - ride a used board, fix my own dings, and would have a hard time naming 10 pro surfers.