thats the way they should keep it. no mags for u and no sponsorships
Yeah, feels good to be THAT surfer huh. The surfing industry with all the money & backing & still have to let the bodyboarders ride it 1st & surfer's claim it as though they discovered the break. What is the excuse as to why the surfer's didn't test it out for themselves 1st. You have the boats, helicopters, surf forecaster's, etc all set up & still wait for someone else to do it 1st. Then have all the surf mags, sponsors make up a headline as a undiscovered slab surfed for 1st time with 1st ever pics. Take it to the National Enquirer & sell the BS to the ones that NEED to beleive it.
Most of the spots you are talking about are ridden primarily by BBers for a reason. They are heavy slaps that get inverted faces.... Something that is almost impossible to do on a stand up board, and the wipe outs are much easier to avoid while laying down. Thats a fact... I surf some shallow reef spots, but we have to wait until the tide is right and there aren't boils everywhere on the face.... The BBers can make insane drops underneath heaving sections that stand up guys really cant make.... Not to say that they usually make it out, but they will get deep and pitted.... There are tons of awesome BB spots worldwide that some standup guys surf, but they just shoulnt... IE: THe wedge.... A man mad disaster for a stand up surfer, when BBers can get into 20 foot pits and come out fine... Its gnarly, but its just easier to BB... Most good BBers are stand up guys too that just want heavy waves, that are sometimes only accessible by BBs. In my opinion. I give a lot of laydown guys credit. Its not my cup of tea, but I see guys having a blast out there on the bodyboards.