Thanks for sharing your story. I really admire that spirit of just going after your passion. The most inspirational people to be around are those who overcome the obstacles to do what they love, especially in surfing since all the elements seem to work against us. It's cool to watch the WCT'ers, but my real favorites like Bethany Hamilton and Timmy Turner who take what life has thrown at them and overcome, smiling along the way. Anyhow, don't wanna get too wishy washy, but I just wanted to share my admiration of your passion for the waves.
Aloha,
Matt