well f##k me!! this was severely under called today in oc! i paddled out around 5:30 to chest-head high barrels & surfed for 2hrs...the swell dropped while i was out, but it was super fun the whole time. i was rather under-gunned at first, having paddled out on my 5'10" dwart...would've been better off on my 6'2" wynn bonzer. oh well....still fun & still got shacked!!
^ Very true ^ Paddled out this morning at 8am and it was funky and kinda big. Not as big as yesterday but still bigger than knee to waist. Nobody out that I could see. I got pounded pretty good a few times and kept telling myself "stop being such a wuss it's knee to waist high" .