well f##k me!! this was severely under called today in oc! i paddled out around 5:30 to chest-head high barrels & surfed for 2hrs...the swell dropped while i was out, but it was super fun the whole time. i was rather under-gunned at first, having paddled out on my 5'10" dwart...would've been better off on my 6'2" wynn bonzer. oh well....still fun & still got shacked!!
^ Very true ^ Paddled out this morning at 8am and it was funky and kinda big. Not as big as yesterday but still bigger than knee to waist. Nobody out that I could see. I got pounded pretty good a few times and kept telling myself "stop being such a wuss it's knee to waist high" .
Today was the last of the swell and it was pretty damn nice in midtown, there might be a little very little leftovers but other then that its time to take the suits off and chill on the beach and get some sun! Looks like we have a nice weekend a head of us!
Got out yesterday at a spot that was still solid head high with consistent overhead sets. Perfect left barrels. Literally got the wave of 2010 for me so far... sick long backhand tube. Not just me, either. Almost everybody out was getting shacked out of their skulls. Even better was... the sun came out... first time since last Friday? Rainbows off the back of perfect set waves... less than 10 guys in the water at any one time. It just all came together like magic. Worth the hour+ drive from my local.