Biography of Miki Dora. A little different in that the writer guides you through Dora's life but doesn't really "tell" the story himself. Instead, he interviewed hundreds of people, and let their own words speak for themselves. So you have people who worshiped Dora, people who hated him, people he cheated, people he was kind to, etc.
From all these different perspectives you get to draw you own conclusions on who Dora was and what he meant to surfing. And you get to learn a lot about surfing history and its roots at the same time.
I'm not a Dora fan, but I though it was great book. The writer did a great job piecing the various interviews together to create the book's "story." Not an easy thing to do.
I can definately 2nd "All for a Few Perfect Waves". Very interesting read. It's almost a history of surfing in and of itself.
"Surf is Where You Find It" - Gerry Lopez Flows very well. Good collection of stories from his life, most told with a good amount of detail that will have you holding your breath as he tells his tales of being caught on the inside.
DO NOT READ, I REPEAT, DO NOT READ: "Pipe Dreams" Kelly Slater's biography. Got nothing against the guy at all and I dont' want to get into any sort of Slater debate, but the book is terribly written. Imagine if the bros you handg out with after a rad session had a few beers, just enough to get a slight buzz, and told you the story of their life. I'd imagine they'd leave out a lot of detail and jump all over the place. That's what this book is. I kinda hope someone does one on him in the vein of "all for a few perfect waves". That'd be a lot more interesting.
"under the banner of heaven" - great book on mormon fundamentalism if you're into creeping yourself out and want to get as far away from utah as possible
As mentioned above, definitely check out the Dora piece, "all for a few perfect waves."
Both "captain zero" and allan wiesbecker's other memoir "why cant you get along with anybody" are good reads and let you into the seedier side of the expat life in costa rica as well as a tutorial on the giving, receiving, and interpreting of bullsh**. If you really dig weisbecker, try "cosmic banditos" a novel that is very weird, yet pretty charming, but not at all about surfing.
Definitely pick up "zero break" an anthology of surf literature edited by matt warsaw, a former surfer mag editor. this will give you several jumping off points for other surf-oriented reading. "zero break" is a great go-to when you are in between books and want something to read, but don't have the time to dive into a novel.
if you are hitting amazon, try a video called 'zen and zero.' trippy, philosophical and has a really cool soundtrack. 'zen' is the true story of a bunch of austrian expats who live in california who decide to follow allan weisbecker's captain zero path driving from the us down to pavones, cr.