damn! i thought that was the title of eddie's bio, but i talked myself out of it!
Originally Posted by Patrick Bateman
Nat's Nat and That's That
Bustin Down the Door
Force of Nature
all of these are fantastic reads & i highly recommend them. i would also add nat young's "surf rage" to the list.
i enjoyed kelly's first bio, "pipe dreams" & his second, "for the love" was interesting as well, but more photo-oriented.
drew kampion's "the lost coast" is a neat collection of short stoies & worth the read as well.
i would suggest just cruising down to your local free public library & typing "surfing" into one of the catalog computers. i'm sure there are dozens of books not listed here that are worth the time, & you'll prob. find a bunch of the ones listed there as well.