I agree that Weisbecker can tell a good story - 2 of 3 were interesting. However, I'd never buy another book of his on grounds completely separate from his storytelling ability.
Waves and Beaches is a classic. This is not an "easy reading" or picture story book. The book contains its fair share of mathematical formulas and grids but there is also plenty of information written in layman's language to understand the formation, transit and breaking of waves.
Torrens, H. (2003). Paraffin chronicles. Victoria, B.C.: Trafford. Memoir of a waverider from Newport Beach, CA, that also spent a fair amount of time in Hawaii, during the innovative 60s/70s. Read the bottom of page 7, the manifesto of surfing is respect,
"Respect is a part of the culture that comes with the territory. It's as much a part of surfing as it was a part of the caveman culture. Territory, respect, pecking order, all of which are only established by action. In my case, the action could be a 40-pound board slicing over my head. The "kick out" was not just a way to pull out of a wave, it was a surfing lesson. There are unwritten rules in surfing. The best waves are ridden by those who put themselves in a position to catch the swell at its peak. Those that elect to try and ride a safer part of the wave can get in the flight path of those swooping down from the more powerful section. That's a violation."