Waves and Beaches by Willard Bascom
Waves and Beaches by Willard Bascom
It's sitting on my shelf of "all time" reads - right next to "Waves and Beaches."
PS - There's also a short chapter in Gerry Lopez's "Surf Is Where You Find It" about a chance enounter with Dora in Bali in the early 70's. Definitely "seconds" Rensin's work. Also, Mr. Lopez is a very good writer. You can hear his voice for sure.
I liked "Caught Inside" by Daniel Duane.
I couldn't finish "West of Jesus", I just felt that the book was not going anywhere.
"Surfer's Code" by Shaun Tomson is a waste
Here's a good article from the New Yorker in the 90's.
The writer describes surfing in San Francisco's Ocean Beach. I thought that this exerpt was very well written:
The only audience that matters to most surfers is other surfers, for they alone can truly appreciate what they are seeing. They have been through the special ordeal of learning to surf, and know what a good performance involves. Also, they share the obsession. Sunday surfers—people for whom surfing is a hobby, who keep their surfboards in the closet next to their skis and tennis racquets—undoubtedly exist. But every Sunday surfer who can stand up on his board was, at some stage, obsessed, for nothing less can get one through the hundreds of difficult, discouraging hours it takes to gain basic skills. And retaining those skills requires constant practice; in other words, competence presumes obsession.
have to admit, though, i understood very little of the wave science
Last edited by cresto4; Apr 24, 2011 at 10:04 PM.
This was an easy read that I couldn't put down. Here's a description...
by Tim Winton
"How strange it was to see men do something beautiful," says the young narrator of Breath. "Something pointless and elegant, as though nobody saw or cared." He is talking, surprisingly enough, about surfing, a multimillion-pound international sport that nowadays hardly anyone thinks of in terms of not being seen. But there was a time, Winton tells us in his first novel since the Booker-shortlisted Dirt Music, when surfing was the closest a man - perhaps especially an Australian man - could get to poetry.
Twelve-year-old Bruce Pike, "Pikelet", lives in Sawyer, near Perth in Western Australia, in the early 70s. A small town of "millers and loggers and dairy farmers", Sawyer is also home to Loonie, one year older than Pikelet and a boy congenitally incapable of turning down a dare. They meet in the local river, Loonie swimming to the bottom and holding his breath for upwards of two minutes with the sole intention of scaring tourists into thinking he's drowning. The boys spur each other on to greater and greater risks, to the point of vomiting and passing out. Anything for a "rebellion against the monotony of drawing breath".
Surf Is Where You Find It by Lopez - - seems obvious, but the reader quickly realizes that this is sublime writing at a very high level
Tapping the Source by Nunn - - still very, very good, after all the years
In Search of Captain Zero by Weisbecker - - he has a tale to tell & he has ability, this is good stuff.......hey, I don't know the guy, and the reason I mention this is 'cause several posters here have ripped Weisbecker for some sort of encounters? but this is good story & that's what you're after...hell, most writers are nutso de facto, so WTF is the big deal about Weisbecker's parameters ....?
......BTW, gents, I mean, really, if you were so concerned about a writer's personal life, you'd never read Conrad (Southern cracker racist; also an anti-Semitic loon), you'd never read Hemingway, not sober anyways (Papa was an alcoholic of the finest kind & blew his brains out with a shotgun in a cabin in Ketchum, Idaho in 1961), you'd never read Poe (total maniac, drug-infused & manic depressive & much more), you'd never read Hunter Thompson (drug central, socialist, it's a long list but one of the original hellmen of all time), you'd never read Jack London (Call of the WIld an incredible book, top 3 of all time, but author Jack London? later in life a miserable, hateful prick), you'd never read Oscar Wilde nor George Bernard Shaw (look them up).
Reading is the best ! Just read !! The Works of good / great writers. And be proud that you're tearing yourself away from the fattening-of-America-XBOX......
most of my fav's have already been mentioned but also check out the "best of Surfer magazine" its hard cover and about 300 pages. Its filled with about a dozen of their hand picked, finest feature articles. Its a great bathroom read!