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  1. #11
    what a bugg out.... when he was giving the description i felt like i couldnt breathe!!!

  2. #12
    This one isnt quite as epic...but more damaging and pretty freaky to get the first hand perspective...

    http://magicseaweed.com/Barrel-that-...-Content/2423/

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    484
    I'm a big Dorian fan and have definitely seen him change the past few years. For anyone who knows about Jose Angel, Shane's behavior these days seems eerily similar.

    Jose was an adrenaline junky to the point of self-destruction. He went through some rough patches in life and started doing these absurd free-diving adventures, going a few hundred feet down for black coral. Eventually he got really messed up, partially paralyzed, and died a mysterious death during a dive.

    Brief summary on surfline: http://www.surfline.com/surfing-a-to...nd-photos_746/

    Anyhow, Dorian seems to be following the same route. He's charging absurd waves with seemingly no regard to his own safety. I worry about the guy. It's like part of him doesn't care if he lives or dies. That line must be a strange one for someone who routinely goes way beyond what any of us would consider "normal", but he has absolutely changed. He seems to realize that in the surfline video, but who knows...just praying the guy is okay. Surfing is an amazing sport, but it's really not worth orphaning your kids.