The surf was perfect yesterday at my local surf break. Solid barrels on take-off with a smooth section that connected into another. Very forgiving wave that made it good for long arcing cutbacks. The crowd was heavy as expected, but didn't matter much with a consistant wave selection. The rip was bad and kept most surfers away; even me after getting tired of paddling non-stop to stay at the point. Four hours into the session I was spent. For once I was tired from catching so many waves and walking back to the point. Know I am rested and ready for more... Hoping for some good surf this weekend.