Maybe I'm too critical, or maybe I do suck, but surfing to me is like a practice in zen. Some days I'm on top of the world ripping every wave with confidence, other days I'm sucking it hard, wiping out, unbalanced...stupid stuff. Its all in my head I know, but most sports are like this. I try not to lie to myself. Its all about being a better surfer.
If you are searching for a solution, first would be to not judge yourself on good or bad days, for a bad day of surfing is better than a good day of work! Also, negative thoughts of any kind should reamain on the beach anyway. And to add, remember how you got good in the first place, every wipe out is just one step closer to sticking it
If Im shooting a round of golf and im playing really poor sometimes I get really ticked off but when im in the water I surf the best I can and Im just try to enjoy the moment.I might be a little upset if I didn't catch a wave but thats about it thou.I guess it helps that theres no scorecard .
I have been surfing for close to twenty years and I still suck, but the stoke keeps me going. My surfing has improved dramatically since moving closer to the beach. Living in New Jersey I had to travel for about and hour or so. Now living in Delaware I am only 15 minutes away. So, I am trying to clock as much surf time as possible. I have bad days and steller days, one day it will all balance out.
"It's all about the stoke."
Last edited by eastbreak; Jun 9, 2010 at 02:10 PM.