Wait 'till you start coming up to your 50's. Every time you have one of those bad days, you start to think, "Is that it? Am I done?" Now that's torturing yourself!
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Thread: ever think you suck?
Jun 9, 2010, 03:18 PM #11
Jun 9, 2010, 04:40 PM #13Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
That's funny, I got out of the water the other day and a guy asked me if i just started!
Been surfing almost 20 years, but yeah, had a REAL bad day. But like most of us, even the bad days are still good days.
I never have too much of a suckish session, but when im not doing as good as i want i always find its cus im just not trying, instead of trying to hit lips and launch i just find myself cruising around, it just comes down to how hard you try.
"Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you're right."
Henry Ford quote.
Jun 9, 2010, 05:41 PM #18
i really didn't think about wether i sucked or not until last years hurricane fed 1-3ft overhead sets. i really got my ass handed to me on some of those days,ate it pretty hard,but eh, i guess that happens to alot of folks in those conditions...... the inside section was murder on those days.....
I think everyone goes through this, even the guys that seem to always surf great. A bad day to a naturaly talented surfer would be my best day. I am sure there are days I blow and some beginner is like "Wow that guy rips" . I have been surfing for 30 years more or less and I still have days where I want to hang it up. The real talent in surfing comes from reading the waves and doing not what you want to do but what the wave will let you do with style. Thats my issue 90% of the time, after a big swell I will try to surf the waist high leftovers in the same way and it just aint gonna happen. You look like an ass digging rails bogging down etc.
Jun 9, 2010, 05:51 PM #20
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
But yes, I think surfers on every level go through the "Man, I am lame" thoughts... Its what I call the surfing Plateau... You hit a certain skill level, and you just have that for a while and you feel like you arent getting any better, you are just surfing as well as you can... I try not to over think it though, because a few years ago, these thoughts would haunt me and I would stay in the water 5 hours a day trying to work on it. Dont have the time for that these days, or the mental compacity to be so critical... Just relax and surf. It will still drive you nuts. Im just a competetive person, so when I feel like im standing still, im not trying hard enough.