Maybe I'm too critical, or maybe I do suck, but surfing to me is like a practice in zen. Some days I'm on top of the world ripping every wave with confidence, other days I'm sucking it hard, wiping out, unbalanced...stupid stuff. Its all in my head I know, but most sports are like this. I try not to lie to myself. Its all about being a better surfer.
I was just talking about this a couple of days ago. I know exactly what you mean. Some days you catch everything you paddle for and tear it up and other days your wondering what the hell just happened. I think conditions have a lot to do with it. We all have certain conditions we like or feel comfortable in the best. Thats why pros can surf in almost anything. I don't sweat it anymore. Its like anything else - some days you got it - some days you don't.
Wait 'till you start coming up to your 50's. Every time you have one of those bad days, you start to think, "Is that it? Am I done?" Now that's torturing yourself!
You got 10 years on me, but man...I know exactly what you're talking about. It's not often, but when you have one of those sessions, it really brings you down.
To answer the orgnal question "Ever think I suck?": Yes. It has to do with my competative nature and comparing myself to others. When I suppress that competative urge, however, and get into it for just the pure enjoyment, I have my best days.
I'm in the same boat as LB but my question is: is it time to switch to a log? the answer is always NO!
one of the better surfers in the water is a 52 year old gent who is well known in these parts. the guy has the smoothest turns of anyone in the water. i told him last year during an epic noreaster swell that I hope that I am surfing as good as he is when i'm his age. I have 20 years to do it, soo anything is possible.
Haha all the time. It's much less frequent now when I'm BBing because I got better over the winter. Surfing is another story, like the other day. Couldn't even make a bottom turn. Gotta remember not to party too hard and then try and surf the next morning!