Snag a wave, paddle out. Snag another wave, paddle out. Snag another, paddle back out. Hangin ten in the barrel, parallel stance!
-Gilligan , ...lost whats really goin wrong!
"i think ill win the world title for the rest of my life, until i die, so you guys won't have to worry..."
I don't think i suck sometimes, but surfing does get me extremely frustrated and flustered sometimes; especially when your surfing good waves and you just can't get one and everyone around you is catching good waves - that infuriates me more than life itself. i have sucky sessions, but its more out of frustration, or after a session i look back at the waves were i pulled out of or didn't hit a section and kick myself for not going for it or *****in out.
unlike the West coast, its overhead and really challenging maybe what, 4-5 x a year, 8-10 in a really active 'cane season? Then when you start a family, get your career rolling, travel less, miss more of the few epic days we do have etc. your skills are going to deplete. Roger Clemens' fastball increased from age 32-age 39 because he was doped to the frikking gills.
remember not to feel like you suck when the waves are bad. i feel the same way when its under waist high because for me theres nothing worthy of self praise. right there with you. im not saying dont go out on bad days... surfing is fun no matter what. when its good im pushing my limits and its paying off, when its bad im sitting there like how are groms busting airs and laybacks in this crap? judge yourself at your best
I was just talking about this a couple of days ago. I know exactly what you mean. Some days you catch everything you paddle for and tear it up and other days your wondering what the hell just happened. I think conditions have a lot to do with it. We all have certain conditions we like or feel comfortable in the best. Thats why pros can surf in almost anything. I don't sweat it anymore. Its like anything else - some days you got it - some days you don't.
I agree, A good day you want to relive and a bad day you want to improve..whether a good or bad day I cant wait to get back out and surf again..no matter what, you always want to get out there and have that good day or better day. Its all always worth it to catch a ride and any of those days could be good or bad but the stoke is always there.