I saw oil in the water the other day. I burned all my surfboards and now I am going to rollerblade. I think I will main line heroin too.
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Thread: Quit Surfing
sports quits in my life
i official retired from skateboarding when i was 23 as my body could not take the punishment anymore. i officialy quit snowboarding when i was 27 as the hill rates and boards got too damn expensive...i quit golf last september when the rates (in florida ) started to go up again for the "SEASON" i did however buy a surfboard when i quit golf .im a skateboarder tried and true and being able to use a free medium to ride on waves or concrete makes ultimate sense in my book. ill never quit surfing untill i cant do it.( note johnny still has a skateboard and golf clubs but only uses them about 5 times a yr each....) i get way stoked for thigh and waist highs and sometimes i can get down the line. ridding a 6'8 fish for my first board.....always stay in your own movie Ken Kesey........
........http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SemL5JycAQ0 my first surf video needs some views
Jun 12, 2010, 12:16 PM #13Junior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
I didn't quit since I still own three boards, but moving inland I only go a few times a year. I supplement what I felt surfing on my bike, on the right singletrack you can get the same feeling you do on a nice wave. Mountain biking has made me fitter that surfing on the east coast did.
Jun 12, 2010, 12:37 PM #15
- Join Date
- May 2006
- Lewes, DE
I say - feel privileged to have the ability to surf. You never know when life circumstances could throw chunks your way and take that ability away.
I had surgery recovery, that kept me out of the water for many months, and the way I dealt was picking up the video camera and being apart of each swell through documentation.
Jun 12, 2010, 02:27 PM #16
Been surfing for 7 years. Fine, don't feel bad for me because I'm not priviledged to live on the ocean. Me and my other Benny friends will be just fine without your judgemental comments. All this negative backlash has made me want to quit surfing... NOT.
Last edited by 609Surfer; Jun 12, 2010 at 02:40 PM.
Jun 12, 2010, 02:51 PM #17Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
Absolutely true. I took a 4 foot airdrop and busted my ankle up a few weeks ago out at ocean beach, and its painful every moment of the day, and surfing on it now is not possible. Thats a minor injury too... Never take for granted the blessings in your life, including the freedom to surf
Also, was surfing perfect 4-6 foot Uluwatuu a few weeks ago, and a large floatilla of garbage took over the lineup. That was one of the more repulsive experiences of my life, and me and a bunch of guys just paddled back in through the cave and called it a day. The conditions were perfect, but it was almost unrideable due to pollution. Lets hope we get our act together, if its happening in Indo its only a matter of time before more and more breaks become unrideable do to oil/pollution/etc.
Jun 12, 2010, 05:03 PM #19
When I went to grad school I moved to Michigan and surfed exactly 5 times in four years. I missed it terribly, but found other ways to cope. Mountain biking became my surfing during that time. Right before I moved back to NJ I got married, and took my honeymoon in Biarritz. I got lucky and got a solid 8ft swell for a couple of the days. I knew at that time there was no choice for me but to start my new life back where I came from. I moved back to NJ to be closer to my family, and to give my kids the same opportunities I had growing up.
happiness is buying less
I grew up living to surf and did so for 10 years. Then, I went to college and got a "real" job because that's what I thought was expected of me. I ended up chasing money and getting fat for 8 years until a series of events, including the birth of my daughter and a trip to Rincon in CA, brought me back to surfing in 2008. Don't get me wrong, there were some good times but those 8 years gave me a lot of perspective and I came away from it knowing that, going forward, surfing is going to be a part of my life until I'm toes up.