it was a great fun filled day. surfed three different spots today. dawn patrol from 5;20 to 9;15, went home, and back to sleep, woke up at 1;00, and had to go on a job, and back out from 3;30 to 4;15, and then back out from 5;20 to 6;00, and then 7.30 to 9;00. only bad part is there always a bunch of guys just taking up space with their boards in the water. it really gives you a feel for summer surf, and it's pathetic, and great at the same time how there is a bigger lineup on a flat summer day, then a pumping head high september/october day.
Yesterday evening was good stuff. Of course, with summer swells come major kookage. I can't believe how many people just drop in like its nothing or drop in and then get mad if you cut back. I don't know if they're just morons or if they're so deprived that they don't give a sh!t. Luckily yesterday was rolling 3-5 waves per set, so the earlier waves cleared out the overzealous kooks enough to get some nice rides.