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  1. #1

    Fun little swell today, (Locals Rule)

    Got a few fun ones this morning. Better than nothing... Anyone else get in the water?

    Covered the swell at http://seasandsurf.com too. Check it out. Sign up. Show some love.

  2. #2

    north wind

    going to try to get out there tomorrow around 5:30, small but clean looks like, and maybe tonight...work in the way...

  3. #3

    awesome swells

    Nice swells today.Was at gilgo beach, rip currents were the worst i've ever seen. It was near impossible to get out of and wound up stuck about 200 yards out for over an hour

  4. #4
    Went to two different breaks. One was 6 foot plus and really plunging hard and closing out real bad. Basically couldn't go left or right on 90% of the waves. stayed 30 minutes. Worthless. Did catch one 7 foot wave closeout. Big ass wave. I flew off the lip and landed. lol Heart was beating real fast.

    I went to another break and way way better. 4-5 feet and not closing out! and not plunging too bad. Perfect conditons. Had a blast (yes I know some people like that super hollow plunging wave, but not me, especially if there's no predictable spilling sections(ie beach break). Makes it scary and too hard to get out for me. I just like having fun

    I don't understand what causes a place to close out that bad when another time it's not closed out at all? Very strange. This time was SSW swell 6.6 feet at 8 seconds. Closed out real bad. Last time was 10 feet at 10 seconds S swell and not closing out at all. It was really epic that day. It looked like pipeline.(too big for me at that barreling beach break, but the rides were long, no close outs). Would a difference between ssw swell direction and s swell direction make the difference?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by usahockey36 View Post
    Nice swells today.Was at gilgo beach, rip currents were the worst i've ever seen. It was near impossible to get out of and wound up stuck about 200 yards out for over an hour
    You consider being stuck in a rip for an hour to be awesome? lol
    To each their own I guess. You had fun. Thats what counts. Oh just in case you don't know try a different angle toward the beach. Should be able to get out of the rip. Rips aren't that wide. Were you stuck in the impact zone for an hour? That must have been scary and tiring. I've been stuck in the impact zone for way way less time than that in the past and was scared.
    Last edited by mikeb2056; Jun 30, 2010 at 12:53 AM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    New York
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    Quote Originally Posted by usahockey36 View Post
    Nice swells today.Was at gilgo beach, rip currents were the worst i've ever seen. It was near impossible to get out of and wound up stuck about 200 yards out for over an hour
    Long Beach was no better! The west wind would make me drift into jetty all sesh long. The tide was high when I was out so it was mushburgers all day. Occasionally water would backwash off the jetty and make a wedge jack up, so it wasen't a total waste of time but it felt good to be out there! Who knows when is the next time were gonna get some? I should of gone to Jersey.....Longbranch and Belmar was probably firing!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    New York
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeb2056 View Post
    Went to two different breaks. One was 6 foot plus and really plunging hard and closing out real bad. Basically couldn't go left or right on 90% of the waves. stayed 30 minutes. Worthless. Did catch one 7 foot wave closeout. Big ass wave. I flew off the lip and landed. lol Heart was beating real fast.

    I went to another break and way way better. 4-5 feet and not closing out! and not plunging too bad. Perfect conditons. Had a blast (yes I know some people like that super hollow plunging wave, but not me, especially if there's no predictable spilling sections(ie beach break). Makes it scary and too hard to get out for me. I just like having fun

    I don't understand what causes a place to close out that bad when another time it's not closed out at all? Very strange. This time was SSW swell 6.6 feet at 8 seconds. Closed out real bad. Last time was 10 feet at 10 seconds S swell and not closing out at all. It was really epic that day. It looked like pipeline.(too big for me at that barreling beach break, but the rides were long, no close outs). Would a difference between ssw swell direction and s swell direction make the difference?
    For sure it varies from spot to spot.......If you caught it at low tide after 12pm then it was way more hollow then at 9:30am when I got to the beach. The spot that I was at was very inconsistent..... breaking all over the place... As the tide was going out the shape of the wave got better and it started picking up ......chest high set. The problem with beach breaks is the irregular bottom... some areas are deep some shallow...So a wave can start to break then mush-out!!! Choose your spot wisely it make a big diffrence!

  8. #8
    A super fun and freezing swell! 3 sessions going for 4.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeb2056 View Post
    You consider being stuck in a rip for an hour to be awesome? lol
    To each their own I guess. You had fun. Thats what counts. Oh just in case you don't know try a different angle toward the beach. Should be able to get out of the rip. Rips aren't that wide. Were you stuck in the impact zone for an hour? That must have been scary and tiring. I've been stuck in the impact zone for way way less time than that in the past and was scared.
    Was stuck in the impact zone and didn't have a chance of getting out. I eventually just let it drag me until i saved enough energy to go in. Took about a half hour of constant paddling diagnol to make it in to shore. As i was coming in i didn't have the energy to ride any of the waves and wound up almost boogie boarding them to help me get closer to land.needless to say i'm gonna take a little break from the ocean.

  10. #10
    Caught in the impact zone??????????? Were you at Mavericks? Why don't you kooks take up kite boarding and leave the waves to people who can use and appreciate them.