i was just thinking of posting a thread for this exact reason. i'm always getting slammed on the steeper waves and i don't know what to do. i'm riding a 6'10"
Quick to go or you'll be saying OH NOOOOOOOO........People will tell you that you need a certain board to ride steep waves and I think thats crap.......You have to be fast out of the gate first off. If you get up to slow you're gonna eat it. Practice practice practice.....Faster you are the better off you are. I as others have said like to angle myself into the wave since I'm not as fast as I used to be and you dont have to make the bottom turn. You should really have some decent nose rocker in your board if a begginer but it's not a 100% gotta have. Experience can get you around that. Ive seen guys drop into steep barrels riding Alaias and they are basically a plank. Unlike what the girls will tell you ... size doesnt matter. A good friend of mine rides nothing but longboards.....period. So when the surf is steep he's on it.....but he's quick as hell. I'm a big guy and my shortboard is 6'10 and I have no problems getting into steep surf. Keep your head up and and keep hittin it.