i was just thinking of posting a thread for this exact reason. i'm always getting slammed on the steeper waves and i don't know what to do. i'm riding a 6'10"
Quick to go or you'll be saying OH NOOOOOOOO........People will tell you that you need a certain board to ride steep waves and I think thats crap.......You have to be fast out of the gate first off. If you get up to slow you're gonna eat it. Practice practice practice.....Faster you are the better off you are. I as others have said like to angle myself into the wave since I'm not as fast as I used to be and you dont have to make the bottom turn. You should really have some decent nose rocker in your board if a begginer but it's not a 100% gotta have. Experience can get you around that. Ive seen guys drop into steep barrels riding Alaias and they are basically a plank. Unlike what the girls will tell you ... size doesnt matter. A good friend of mine rides nothing but longboards.....period. So when the surf is steep he's on it.....but he's quick as hell. I'm a big guy and my shortboard is 6'10 and I have no problems getting into steep surf. Keep your head up and and keep hittin it.
I like the angled approach, but I also ride a fun shape. If I try to drop straight in, I don't seem to have enough speed to make it without tumbling. I paddle hard at a slight angle and drop slightly sideways down the face.
more than anything it's committment. You can pop up as quick as you want but if you are not committed your are going to get worked. Hesitate and your doomed
^ This, once i got over bailing out and made the decision to committ no matter what, that's when I started catching almost everything I tried for, with the occassional biff, cause I'm definitely working on my technique still, as i'm sure we all are.
It's all about the "bodyboard take off". Don't paddle like you would with a longboard. Get in the spot - usually the peak. The shoulder looks appealing but won't give you power/speed you need to get ahead of the section and be in charge. Right as the wave approaches, paddle extremely hard and throw your weight forward as you start to get up. Keep pressure at the front of the board or rails with your hands. This allows the board to keep going down the face without you having to pop up super quick.
Backside is good for angle takeoffs but frontside is all about the bottom turn.
Can't be afraid. Go to s-turns and learn the hard way