This thread is over two years old. I hope the OP learned by now.
He probably has, unless he stopped surfing, but it's good conversation, one of the only current threads that actually talk about SURFING, instead of the 1,000 threads about water quality, beach access in the Sandy disaster areas, or the many threads of people pretending to be coastal engineers and giving their suggestions on beach replenishment. Or how about we start a new thread about a Mini-Simmons for sale, or what about a new wetsuit thread, or another "i'm looking for a Lost Rocket", yeah we need more of those. HAHA, Just sayin...
How are all of the things you listed above not directly related to surfing? More to the point, isn't this the SwellInfo forum? I thought this was a forecasting site devoted to predicting ocean swell when it hits (or doesn’t hit) local beaches, not just a site devoted to Surfing. Seems like taking advantage of the many other things one can do at the beach besides surfing is often dependent upon how the waves are or aren’t. I don’t know, all of the things above affect me personally in some way except the Sandy stuff (boards, wetsuits, water quality, beach replenishment); I live at the beach, that stuff matters to me everyday. Sandy affects all of us, as a community of surfers. I’m pretty sure the erBB forum is way better at only posting about surfing topics.
I think you took that one wrong, what i'm saying is there is an over abundance of these threads currently. I have participated in many of these threads out of boredom, but to be honest, i'd much rather talk about the actual ACT of SURFING, rather than all of the other stuff mentioned. Sure, a thread here and there wouldn't bother me, but when it's the same thread posted over and over by different people on a regular basis it gets redundant. That's all i'm sayin man. I too enjoy feedback on a good wetsuit from time to time, but having 100 threads about the same thing? My post was really just directed at Inland's post suggesting we shouldn't be talking in a thread two years old, when the topic being discussed is more useful than any of the other threads currently being beat like a dead horse.
LOL. So what you're saying is that people need to use the Search option more often?
That's not what i'm saying, but that would be a good start for people. Rather than post a new thread on a topic that has been repeated infinite times already, just open one that exists and post there right? So yea, that's a good suggestion, and i've been guilty of it before (like when i wanted to know more about Rincon). I just think the forum lacks conversation focused around surfing technique, tips, tricks, etc. these are the things I think most people including myself would benefit from. No matter how good you get, there is always something to learn from someone else. So when a guy revives a thread about "Steep Drops" I welcome it because i'm not Kelly Slater and I am always looking to hear what other people are doing out there.
Last edited by DawnPatrolSUP; Dec 13, 2012 at 09:04 PM.
Threads like this keep me tuning in. For me it is important to look over my shoulder just before the wave arrives to make a last minute adjustment in angle and how hard I bear down on that last stroke which is usually with both arms. I take off at an angle generally at the peak and going in direction of the swell. That said, there have been big hollow days when I've sat outside all session, paddling for many and not getting into one wave. I was lacking a confidence, commitment or conditioning ingredient and should not have been out there. Other steep days it felt right and I've done well. I'm getting better at understanding my limitations.
I think I’d rather make a steep drop into a jacked-up, big wave than have head high, perfect peelers that go forever. Tough call though. The first definitely gets the ticker quicker than the latter.
I’m no surf school instructor, but I’ve been thinking about how I do this and what works for me. Hope it helps somebody. Fun stuff to try to put into words. It seems like there are two ways that I do this, parallel to the wave and perpendicular to the wave. I dunno, I’ve probably been doing it all “wrong” this whole time, but it works for me. I learn new stuff and change my technique all the time. Just yesterday some old timer told me that I was working too hard and if I wanted to hang ten easier, I need to start walking the board when it’s at an upward facing angle as opposed to a down angle. Never knew that. Actually seemed to make a big difference.
No matter the size of the wave, I usually take off at some angle parallel to the wave face. This works especially well on the shoulder. The steeper and quicker the wave is closing out, the closer I get to 90° from the face. Some waves, I‘m looking directly over my shoulder right at wave. Paddle hard, you can do the no paddle take off on steep waves, it’s not hard, just pop when the wave jacks up; but it can get you into trouble cause you can’t take the same angle or worse you might miss it for lack of a little paddling. Paddling’s where it at, just ask Betty Page or the latest WaveJet Corey Lopez’s broken. The more parallel I am the higher the line I try to take off on. The bigger and steeper the wave, the more I try to limit my bottom turn so I don’t get caught by the crashing wave and I can get more speed to make the next section. At this point you need a solid pop-up. Put your hands on the board right under the tops of your pecs. I like to inhale a deep breath right then too. Start exhaling. Push up like you’re doing the cobra in Yoga, so your shoulders are off the board and higher than your pelvis. Here’s where I see most people blow their pop up: Don’t Shove You’re @$$ in the Air! That’s how you end up crawling up, surfers don’t crawl! Swing your legs like a pendulum under you. Plant your feet solid; your front foot should where your hands where more or less, make sure you don’t drag your toes, start your next inhale. When I pop and I’m trying to take a high line, I’ll stay real low in a crouch; if I pop and stand all the way up, I’m heading for the trough and it’s a bigger bottom turn back to the top. That can be fun too. If it’s really steep and closing out fast, I’ll grab the outside rail and start pulling up so that the nose doesn’t start drifting down the wave; not too much, just until I get some speed built up and then come out of my crouch some; or I stall a bit, drag my inside hand against the face and settle in for some me time. Then I figure out what the wave is going to do next and start playing around. Or I get ate and get an opportunity to get real familiar with the reef.
So, taking off perpendicular or straight on a big steep wave is a whole different ball game you’re going to need to take a bottom turn and get back on the face, otherwise you might as well just keep stink bugging straight to the shore. You really want to do this kind of take off at the peak and not the shoulder and you want to start on the outside. The steeper the wave, the more vertical the boards going to get, the more horizontal to the ocean floor you’re going to get. I take a wide a stance. It must be straight up Greg Noll arms out, legs akimbo, because right before I begin my bottom turn it seems like I always need to pull my feet closer together and my arms in. If you get airborne down the face, or start hitting some serious chop, a wide stance sure seems to keep me on my board. Helps cushion the shock to the knees too. The straight take off seems to be the best way to put new pressure dings in your board and get a few extra BPM out of your heart. This is also the best way to break a board. It’s really easy to screw up and the next thing you know you’re doing a massive floater with no hope and the waves coming down right on top of you. This seems to happen by trying to go from a straight takeoff immediately into a turn on the face without any speed. In other words you skipped the bottom turn. Paddle Hard. Like long before the wave gets there. You’re trying to build up a lot of speed. Try to pop up as soon as you start to feel the wave catch the board. If you pop up late you’re going to drop in from the highest part of the peak. This is fun, but can be a cliffhanger. Nail your popup, nothing is worse than missing this one. You’re going to be headed straight down, WHEEEEE. If you don’t nail it, you’re doing a belly flop with a board coming right behind you. I think on the drop I have more weight on my front foot, until I start the bottom turn. Shift your weight onto the backfoot so that you don’t drive the nose of the board into the reef as it will be quickly followed by your face. You’re going to need that weight back there to really lean into and carve that bottom turn, almost, but not quite pivot off of it if you’re on a longboard. I usually am standing all the way up on turns like that, really leaning into it and then duck into a crouch when I’m exiting it on the way back up the face. Then I like to take a high line to get some speed going again. Or I’ve wiped out and am getting a fun ride in the washing machine, seeing how tight a ball I can tuck into and wondering if I should start counting. I never seem to start until about 5 seconds in.