im using a 6'2 thruster and a fish that a little shorter and dealt with the steep drops recently too. my bayhead break, for me, is notorious for this nonsense and up until this year i've always had to deal with a lownumber-ride-sessions because the steep drops always owned me. yet, no matter what i dealt with the beatings in order to learn and after a while i started getting used to the speed, the angle, the steepness, and what to do when you are up.
the hardest for me was the fact that my board was so short. i went from being able to push up and take a second to feel the wave before jumping up, on to these waves where you literally need to jump on the board almost right as you begin to catch the wave. unfortunately for me, my backside balance is poor and i usually end up doin a big bottom turn carve and get RAILED by the wave. however, my frontside is waaay better and i feel a small turn almost near the bottom keep most of the speed and gets you moving out of the danger zone.
short version: getting to your feet extremely quick solved my problem of steep waves... now only to fix going left
Results 31 to 40 of 94
Thread: Steep Drops
Aug 16, 2010, 09:14 PM #31
- Join Date
- Jun 2008
- Brick Township, New Jersey, United States
Last edited by pvjumper05; Aug 16, 2010 at 09:16 PM. Reason: ****ty ass grammar :)
Aug 16, 2010, 09:16 PM #32
I just air-drop all day every day. Low Waimea type stance and just straight up air drop it. All day every day.
Aug 16, 2010, 10:46 PM #34
Might sound like common sense but keep the nose up.As you surf more and more you'll relize what waves to catch and what waves to pass on.Alot of times after I pass on a wave I check it out to see how it broke.
Aug 17, 2010, 12:05 AM #35
If your riding a longboard you need to be farther back on the tail or your guaranteed to get worked.
Aug 17, 2010, 12:24 AM #36Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
- Milford, DE
With a 6'8" surfboard or any surfboard you want to get on the wave early and get up quick once you feel your board accelerate, but most importantly get a good angle on the wave, don't ride the wave straight or you will get pearled, You want a good 45 to 55 degree angle on takeoff to the open face of the wave, don't get too much of an angle or you will tossed over the falls which is worse than pearling, once in position set your rail and enjoy the view.
For extra speed get your stance closer to nose of the board, front foot 3/4 to the nose and back foot 3/4 to the tail; put it this way your back foot shouldn't be on the kick pad, if you have one (Tracktop), Once your in the open section of wave then shimmy back to normal stance. That's how Mick Fanning does it...
1. get on it early
2. get up quick
3. set angle
4. set rail
5. smile you’re in the green room or the brown on the east coast
Aug 17, 2010, 01:15 AM #37Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
I have always found the most successful way to drop in on steep waves is to lay in your rail as you are popping (fast of course). and when I say lay in your rail, I mean not dropping straight and making a bottom, because steep waves = fast. No time unless the face is holding up to drop straight and make a long bottom turn. I like to paddle hard in any direction into the wave. I think direction you paddle can be adjusted as you pop. you begin to lay the rail by turning your head and shoulders as you initiate popping. and as you get to your feet you drop and lay into your toes or heels (frontside or backside) and keep you head and shoulders pointed down the line.
Aug 17, 2010, 01:19 AM #38Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
Aug 17, 2010, 01:33 AM #39
Four pages of responses on equipment ,stance, concave, yada yada. I promise you your problem is you're not paddling hard enough. Bigger waves = longer period = faster = sucks up more water = you need to paddle harder and faster, when you think you're ready to drop, paddle once more.
Shift up a little on your board, put your face down, and start paddling hard and commited, guarantee it will make a huge difference.
Aug 17, 2010, 01:36 AM #40Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
This is a great thread - lots of good stuff. It was good to see frankshred's comment a few comments above, because that's always really helped me, leaning a bit on the inside rail. Not sure if this is technically the best way to do it, and no one ever told or taught me this - I just one day started trying to replicate the feel of snowboarding, when you're in a half pipe or a steep section of hill and you need to lean and keep that uphill edge.
I'd be curious to hear from others about whether this is considered a good way to go about it.