Surfing once a few hours north of San Diego, don't remember the exact location, but we're paddling out and I duck dive under this swell and come up to my friend hugging the **** out of his long board and screams back at me to turn in and 'GET TO ****ING SHORE GOOOOO!' I was confused and he pointed out. About 25-30m swimming away from us a white shark had surfaced a little bit. Damn near walked on water like Jesus.
Then in La Jolla all the leopard sharks are funny cause they scare the **** out of people haha.
Don't really have any other good surf stories. Hoping to go on a trip after I get done with EOD school.