Surfing once a few hours north of San Diego, don't remember the exact location, but we're paddling out and I duck dive under this swell and come up to my friend hugging the **** out of his long board and screams back at me to turn in and 'GET TO ****ING SHORE GOOOOO!' I was confused and he pointed out. About 25-30m swimming away from us a white shark had surfaced a little bit. Damn near walked on water like Jesus.
Then in La Jolla all the leopard sharks are funny cause they scare the **** out of people haha.
Don't really have any other good surf stories. Hoping to go on a trip after I get done with EOD school.
Tulin rivermouth at la Playa Hermosa during my first trip to CR about 7 years ago. I'm out there with my buddy at about dusk, surfing about 400 yards north of the rivermouth. We're sitting there waiting for waves about 20 feet from each other when I see the croc outline slowly break the surface between us. I called my buddy (who was looking the other way) really quietly. He didnt hear me, so I said it a little louder, almost crying at this point because I was scared to death. He still didn't here me, so I say it even louder. "What!?" he says and then turns to look at me. His face immediately turns pale and eyes pop open, and we just stare each other, afraid to move a muscle. The thing just sits there and doesn't move really. About a minute later (probably about 20 seconds, but it felt like an ETERNITY) a wave breaks about 20 yards outside of us, and we wait till the last second and catch the whitewater. Thank God we rode it in almost to the shore, kiss the ground, hug each other, and call it a day.
Fast forward two years later, I'm on deployment with the navy and we stop in Vanuatu, about halfway between Fiji and New Caledonia. No waves but we end up in a local bar, partying with the guys from the ship, locals and a group of 20-some Aussie nurses (I know, doesn't really get much better than that!). There's no refrigeration, so all the drinks are warm, and the music is this old-ass stereo bumping some classic reggae. We must have partied to 3 or 4 in the morning, warm beer and Bob Marley tunes setting the tone for one of my favorite memories. Anyhow, the sketch part. Early on in the night, this fisherman starts talking to us. He looks like he could have played a role in "Blood Diamond", to get an idea of what he looked like. White t-shirt with holes and blood all over it, with a machete on his belt. I don't know what we said, but several moments later the guy flips out and draws his machete and starts screaming at us. Immediately one of the bouncers comes over and grabs the guy from behind and drags him out of there. Rest of the night went great, minus the one minute of being threatened with a machete and French expletives.