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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by pkovo View Post
    It was posted on the APP website last night that they would be closed today and tomorrow. Not sure if it ran in the actual paper.

    This isn't Hawaii or CA. It's an overcrowded state that doesn't normally get large waves, and we're leading into one of the biggest beach weekends of the year. I'm really not surprised. They're thinking liability.

    Especially when you have the weather channel Hype Machine talking about dangerous rips and evacuations in every third sentence 24 hours a day. I mean clearly there will be dangerous conditions, but man they absolutely go nuts on this stuff.

    Pretty sure the rangers would call you out if you try to go next to the jetty, or the fisherman would be casting lead at you. It doesn't actually break good there anyway.
    The state does normally get large waves around the head high range. Just not consistently. Hawaii and California can get 50 foot waves, which obviously can be deadly This stuff is a few feet overhead at most while it's still clean. It's just this hype machine that the weather channel has created about these "rips". Rips don't even present a danger to someone who knows what their doing in the water. They showed a video of a surfer on a 1 to 2 foot overhead wave and they were talking about he was "crazy". That's not crazy. It's called surfing. People surf and bodyboard on the Atlantic and a swell shouldn't stop them from doing so. It's what their waiting for! Maybe they should just shut down all the surf shops too.

    The Weather channel is creating all these lies about the danger of long period swell. They should do this ridiculous coverage everytime there's a 15 second period swell hitting southern California, which btw has a HUGE population locally. Oh wait a minute. They'd have a crew there almost everyday....lmao The weather channel see's this is a ratings grab. I swear by the way their covering this event, you'd think it was a death trap for an experienced ocean person to enter the water with a 5 foot at 13 seconds well. Rather than give people real advice about the dangers of shore pound and knowing your limits and using caution, they spew out this crap. Also, it depends on the break. Every break breaks differently. Some are real heavy and some break easy as we all know. What a complete joke! Look at this ridiculous picture taken off a new england news tv network.necn.jpg
    Last edited by mikeb2056; Sep 2, 2010 at 11:33 PM.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeb2056 View Post
    The state does normally get large waves around the head high range. Just not consistently. Hawaii and California can get 50 foot waves, which obviously can be deadly This stuff is a few feet overhead at most while it's still clean. It's just this hype machine that the weather channel has created about these "rips". Rips don't even present a danger to someone who knows what their doing in the water. They showed a video of a surfer on a perfectly safe 1 to 2 foot overhead wave and they were talking about he was "crazy". That's not crazy. It's called surfing. People surf and bodyboard on the Atlantic and a swell shouldn't stop them from doing so. It's what their waiting for! Maybe they should just shut down all the surf shops too.

    The Weather channel is creating all these lies about the danger of long period swell. They should do this ridiculous coverage everytime there's a 15 second period swell hitting southern California, which btw has a MUCH bigger population locally. Oh wait a minute. They'd have a crew there almost everyday....lmao The weather channel see's this is a ratings grab. I swear by the way their covering this event, you'd think it was a death trap for an experienced ocean person to enter the water with a 5 foot at 13 seconds well. Rather than give people real advice about the dangers of shore pound and knowing your limits and using caution, they spew out this crap. What a complete joke! Look at this ridiculous picture taken off a new england news tv network.necn.jpg
    lmao DANGEROUS SURF

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by tbeaver View Post
    Shame on our rotund Governor. And to think, you called in a fake sick day at your job in state government only to get skunked!
    Ha... no sick day for me. This is my summer vacation. See I'm one of those teachers that steal taxpayer dollars (well that's atleast how Governor Krispy Kreme puts it). But thanks for trying to be an asshole. Maybe you'll succeed someday!

  4. #14
    I agree that the weather channel and other news stations are blowing this way out of proportion. That being said, you can not compare 20 foot swells on the pacific coast to similar sized swells in the Atlantic.

    I've been to surf school in Washington state, at the mouth of the Columbia river. 20ft swells are common there. I'd take those 20 footers over 10-20 foot Atlantic surf any day. People under estimate just how nasty the atlantic can get. Currents can be MUCH stronger than what you'll see on the west coast. Personally speaking, you won't see me trying to paddle out in 10 foot hurricane surf here on the east coast. Doesn't mean I think you guys are nuts, but after many years of "playing" in the surf, I respect the power, and its something that I really don't want to mess with.

    So while they speak of these "rips" on tv, you cannot sit here and look at this hurricane surf as being anything less than dangerous. Have fun, but be careful guys. Not worth dying over a wave....in my opinion anyway. Someday I'd like to be good enough to surf some larger waves, but I got my ass pounded in 4-6 footers from a wind swell. I can't imagine playing with this hurricane swell, although I'll be on duty ready to play with it in another form.
    Last edited by USCG47driver; Sep 3, 2010 at 02:43 AM.

  5. #15
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    when surfing with big waves i have learned that 1) you must respect the water and the power that the water has when its big and pumping, 2) you gotta channel your fear from scared fear into pour energy fear and use that fear to produce more energy, 3) remember eas coast surf is way harder than any other place you have surfed as remember we east coast surfers dont have channels we can just paddle in and catch a wave and then paddle back out in the channel we have rips so use the rip and current to your benefit, and finally you just gotta know your limits if your new and still riding a soft top dont go paddling out in head high+ surf stay small, now this will change if of course your good and can surf a soft top really well, as i know i ride my cousins when its shorepounding and shallow with waist high waves so i dont break my boards.
    Last edited by wbsurfer; Sep 3, 2010 at 02:59 AM.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by USCG47driver View Post
    I agree that the weather channel and other news stations are blowing this way out of proportion. That being said, you can not compare 20 foot swells on the pacific coast to similar sized swells in the Atlantic.

    I've been to surf school in Washington state, at the mouth of the Columbia river. 20ft swells are common there. I'd take those 20 footers over 10-20 foot Atlantic surf any day. People under estimate just how nasty the atlantic can get. Currents can be MUCH stronger than what you'll see on the west coast. Personally speaking, you won't see me trying to paddle out in 10 foot hurricane surf here on the east coast. Doesn't mean I think you guys are nuts, but after many years of "playing" in the surf, I respect the power, and its something that I really don't want to mess with.
    I understand what your saying. Your talking about the better(for me,of course i don't like super heavy hollow waves) less heavy breaks out west vs. Steep holllow beach breaks in the mid atlantic. REAL HEAVY. The currents are caused by the hollow waves breaking on sandbars with steep drop offs.

    IE Malibu wave...my type of wave not heavy or really hollow. Of course out west ALSO has some of the most dangerous breaks around like the wedge and sandy's in Oahu. Pipeline is one the heaviest waves in the world and it breaks on razor sharp coral so the west has it's share of dangerous breaks. There not all easy rollers out west

    Charging double or triple overhead close out waves on a hollow beach shorepound break with no paddling channels is nearly impossible to paddle out to the lineup and nuts. Wack jobs do it all the time at waimea bay shorepound,(truly insane), the wedge, sandy's ect. I agree 4-6 foot on a hollow beach break will work u real good.My only point was you shouldn't be banned from entering the water if you find a spot that is manageable and working good. That was my original point. He had found a spot that was working and wasn't allowed to go in.
    Last edited by mikeb2056; Sep 3, 2010 at 03:41 AM.

  7. #17
    I made a mistake before. The honorable governor was actually lowered into the ocean off of island beach state park today to act as an additional buoy to get a better reading. He claims to have been bobbing up and down at 25 feet every 30 seconds, thus setting in motion the state wide gnar-warning system, which closes down the beach due to gnar waves.

  8. #18
    Oh and you can't tell me spots like Mavericks aren't a million times heavier and bigger than anything out east.

  9. #19
    Oh and don't feel bad about getting worked in 4-6 feet. . It's all about having fun. I don't like seeing someone being banned from the ocean during a good swell. That's all.