The state does normally get large waves around the head high range. Just not consistently. Hawaii and California can get 50 foot waves, which obviously can be deadly This stuff is a few feet overhead at most while it's still clean. It's just this hype machine that the weather channel has created about these "rips". Rips don't even present a danger to someone who knows what their doing in the water. They showed a video of a surfer on a perfectly safe 1 to 2 foot overhead wave and they were talking about he was "crazy". That's not crazy. It's called surfing. People surf and bodyboard on the Atlantic and a swell shouldn't stop them from doing so.
It's what their waiting for! Maybe they should just shut down all the surf shops too.
The Weather channel is creating all these lies about the danger of long period swell. They should do this ridiculous coverage everytime there's a 15 second period swell hitting southern California, which btw has a MUCH bigger population locally. Oh wait a minute. They'd have a crew there almost everyday....lmao The weather channel see's this is a ratings grab. I swear by the way their covering this event, you'd think it was a death trap for an experienced ocean person to enter the water with a 5 foot at 13 seconds well. Rather than give people real advice about the dangers of shore pound and knowing your limits and using caution, they spew out this crap. What a complete joke! Look at this ridiculous picture taken off a new england news tv network.
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