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  1. #1

    When your feeling good; feeling good is good enough.

    Today was smaller than I expected and it looked bigger with more power yesterday. However, even with the NE wind it was surprisingly clean!!! Had family in town yesterday so wan not able to get out. Been surfing for about 8 years and 5 years ago moved within 20 min of the ocean. I had too, being in the ocean is one of the only places that I am at peace. My normal spots are always crouded so I went exploring today. Found some nice peaks but the fishermen already had their lines in so I went to my crouded spot. Its ok, when there is size there are two or so spots that break and yet mostly everyone still crowds the usual peak. LOL, more rides for me. I have been out in size and power had always seemed to have hessitation due to fear of being pounded into the beach below. I had decided that it was time to put that aside and truely ride for myself today. I paddled out and waited, just relaxing smiling at the ocean before me and just being at my place in my mind. I look up and just see this wall coming at me. I turn paddle a few strokes and just drop, digging my edge in this wall just seems to never end, I turn go back up, and just carve up and down. I look over my shoulder and see nothing but wave, I look ahead of me and see nothing but wave. It was getting ready to close out on me and there was just a wall of wave and no where to pop out. I wait till the last possible second and pull in front to prevent getting smashed. It was the best feeling in my life and the feeling that I know that I have been searching for everytime I am in the water. Till next time I smile. Mabe tomorrow I will find it again.

  2. #2
    Awesome, man sounds like you had a good day...it was big chop yesterday, dropping 90 degrees straight into big closeouts, but today was great, definitely 1 to 2 foot OH @ my spot...one of the best days all year so far, besides Earl...they were super clean today, caught some great rides, got barreled, what more can you ask for...I got da stoke!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Carolina Beach
    Posts
    843
    Images
    1
    i know the feeling man, you forget about all your problems when you paddle out its just you and the ocean. my first wave today was just a perfect big clean long right and i couldnt help but let out a good ol yell when i came out of it. let the stoke live on...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    484
    Thanks for sharing.

    I take my wisdom from Jeff Bridges in Surf's Up..."what could be better than this?"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Hilton Head Island - OB, SD
    Posts
    3,681
    Images
    26
    Yeah, I think everyone on both east and west coasts has a full tank of stoke right about now. Finally. The sessions Ive had this past week rank up there for me. I have been grinning since tuesday... Im happy as a pig in sh** right now. Great stuff.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Monmouth County
    Posts
    1,364
    this is one of the most memorable runs of surf in my 'career'.. keep it coming!

  7. #7
    that's awesome man. that's why i started surfing......that's why i'll never stop

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Long Buried Island
    Posts
    684
    Yeah I will never forget that first feeling I had after riding my first wall of water. Where all you have is a tiny edge of your board in the face of the wave and it feels like your screaming down the line. That is real surfing...welcome!

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Sniffer View Post
    Yeah I will never forget that first feeling I had after riding my first wall of water. Where all you have is a tiny edge of your board in the face of the wave and it feels like your screaming down the line. That is real surfing...welcome!

    yep... I've been able to go down the line on the small waves and have made some drops on bigger stuff, but this weekend was my first time going down the line on a 5 foot wall. Screaming down the line sounds about right. Awesome sauce.

  10. #10
    iv been surfing for a decade and I still get that feeling almost every session. Keep pushing yourself- and your surfing.