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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    I still feel the same way everytime I get in the water .Allan C. Weisbecker says it best that the best feeling in the world is when one is riding on the nose and both feet are hanging off the end its the closet to walking on water one can get

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Jacksonville FL
    While most people are cool to me about surfing their breaks... being white and living here 3 months means I sit at the bottom the pecking order (EVERYONE has priority over me!!). I ride about every day... good and hollow or onshore and small... I say hi to the kingpins...maybe get a nod of approval back. I can usually garbage pick waves at the end of the reef at a few spots pretty successfully until I catch too many and the locals fill in. I can paddle out at a few of the more localized spots and catch a few leftovers maybe even get thrown a set wave if I'm lucky. All things I'm thankful for as I slowly try to earn a spot in the waves around here. Anyways... This week we have been getting typhoon swell... first real swell in months. All of the already localized spots are full of said locals jonesing for some good waves. Got some good ones this week but the situation makes it tough for me. I have had my eye on a spot on the Navy base where I live for some time. A long left point breaking on a shallow reef. A no brainer right? A must surf? But no one surfs it... military or not. To access it requires a boat or scaling a 30 meter cliff with a surfboard. Finally, yesterday evening as the swell was peaking decided if I was to score something epic that I had to surf this spot. Scary! Some mountain goat style hiking on a cliff with my 6'4...a short walk through a jungle.. a totally unknown paddle out to a reeling & spitting head high wave. It had long point break walls and a point break current but with reef consequences...in about 2 ft of water. What makes it so heavy is if something goes wrong ...shallow or sharky (generous description), it is a mile+ paddle or crawling back up the cliff. After surfing for years.. haven't been scared in a while. I was scared ...not because I thought it was a bad idea.. just it was the great unknown with some consequences. AWESOME!!! Nabbed some good ones. The session was short due to the fading light but it was one of those sessions were you really learn something about yourself. Pro surfer I am not... but like someone else posted we all need to remember that feeling and continue to push ourselves. feeling good is good enough