live aloha.......funny how we may know about the places few mainlanders have been....and you're right, it's very rare that they break....but when they do......it's like a dream. Good to know there are those who understand. I remember one of the "surf" mags had a 2 page centerfold spread of one secret spot...a few pros scored it really nice....I almost threw up when I saw the pic.....good thing they didn't tell.
been sponging since 71 and surfing since 81, off and on. huntington state beach was my place 3x a week thanks to my friend's mom who worked swing as a nurse and dragged us to the beach in the morning before work. first "sponge" was a k-mart special styro kickboard with a blue mesh over it that gave a wonderful chest rash. first surfboard was a 6 ft. david nuuhiwa. my wetsuit was an "overall" of stiff tire-like rubber that was still ineffective at warmth while being almost impossible to move in. lived in san diego at OB for two years out of college and then moved back to the la area. being severely myopic since i was 5 has been a pain, but once i figured how to have vision in the water, life is good. still frequent HB and the surrounds, depending on crowds and which site my son wants to surf (he is better at 14 than i will ever be). i have a 70's 9' dewey weber, and i frequently borrow an 8 ft bruce jones that a friend lets me borrow. besides the west coast of southern california, been to costa rica (playa hermosa and jaco), ecuador's ruta del (sol) spondylus (need to return in winter), mexico (meh), and hawaii, and i figure the best was probably in CR or at trestles, which i've only trekked once, but ecuador had great moments too. wish to get to asia and nico eventually, and PR is already on wife's wish list.
Last edited by spongedude; Aug 25, 2011 at 12:49 AM.
42 yrs old, I don't remember the exact age but my older brothers used to bring me out on a longboard between 6-8 yrs of age and I have been in the water ever since. I have not done a whole lot of traveling to surf, but have some memorable hurricane and nor'easter sessions. My home break growing up was a great spot in Monmouth County called Logs. A great right break off a jetty. I don't think it has broke since beach replenishment. Does anyone remember Logs? Would love to hear some stories.