
Originally Posted by
njsurfer42
i started surfing in 1990 in my hometown of ocnj at the age of 9. so i guess it's 20 years now...jeeze, time flies!
i'm hard pressed to pick an all-time favorite, but the places that come up when i think of places i've been that i want to go back to are these:
1) chicken's, north male atolls, maldives. a really fun, rippable left reef pass. surfed it for the first time this august...so, so fun!
2)emily's, morro negrito surf camp, panama. it's just a fun, playful left coral/cobble stone pointbreak.
of course, i've had absolutely mind-blowing session at home, in hatteras, costa rica, & in california. in fact, if i were going to relocate, it would be to either northern san diego county, so i could make black's my home break, or to santa barbara or ventura counties, where i've heard it's somewhat less crowded.
after missing 4 straight hurricane seasons while in college, however, i swore that i'd never miss another. that no matter what, i'd be home (in nj) for the fall. i've kept that promise for the last 7 years. there's really no where else i want to be at this time of year.
my "spots to hit" list is rather lengthy:
1) pavones. been to costa 3x & never made it that far south
2) j-bay. i don't care that it's a right! i want to surf that wave!
3) peru. i had the opportunity to go in 2008, but i had to back out b/c the engine fell out of my car.
4) france. hossegor just seems so sick!
5) new zealand. land of the long left pointbreak. what goofy footer doesn't want to go there?
6)indo. 'nuff said.