First place I ever stood up on a board was fall '03 in Vancouver Island, British Columbia. The place is just magical pristine nature. Waves were small when I was there, but it can pump in the winter. I will go back! I have family in western Canada and we took a camping trip there. My sister and I got lessons, cold water, booties and hood. Not so typical first surfing experience!
After that I was hooked. However, went to college in Philadelphia and playing on ice hockey team limited my water time. Surfed AC, Seaside, LBI a bunch any chance I got. Hurricane Hannah was a special day for me. I even took NJtransit train to AC a bunch because I didn't always have a car. I would skate with my 6'10 Steve Ford under my arm down to 30th Street Station. Man, the looks and comments I got lol!
Graduated and got a job in NYC and now live in LBNY, one block from the beach. Dream come true.
I have been fortunate to travel a bunch, these are my favorite places
1) So.California camping/surfing tour
2) All over Maui
3) Vancouver Island
Of course, cant beat at home break with friends hooting and hollerin!
Making some coin now, got trips coming up for Morocco and Panama!
Telling my age now; started surfing at age 14 (1976) (heavy-natural art single fin) between the triple s pier and oceanna pier in Atlantic Beach, NC, also Emerald Isle some in late 1970s early 80s. Surfed to 1985. Went to college, graduated, got a job, house, wife, kid, ect.. started surfing again in 2002. (with updated boards! LOL)
Outer Banks - so many spots to choose from
Wilmington - (wrightsville) good swell window
AB, EI - when the fickle spots break
1977,yellow Gerry Lopez Lightning Bolt wing pin single fin.
Those boards are great.
1. I got my first Morey Boogie board in 1976. I think it was called the "Aussie." I lived in North End (Long Branch, NJ) and wore that thing out! Somebody there had a Lightning Bolt...green with a yellow bolt. I wanted one so bad! In '78, I bought my first surfboard. It was a single-fin Sunset and had the same pin-ish outline that the Lightning Bolt boards do. I wish I kept it.
2. The first place is Ollies Point. The boatride is always a crapshoot, but if you catch it when it's hitting, you'll never forget it. The second place would be a toss up between Avellanas & Sandy Hook on a clean south swell.
Started surfing at age 9 in SIC. So I have been surfing for 30 yrs.. Wow time does fly...
I can not narrow down my best surf sessions or spot since there have been many so I'll go by my best two most memorable trips.
1st flew down to CR solo in 93 after college hung around for 2 months till I met a guy who was there already in Central America for 9 months had his truck shipped out from cali and needed someone to drive back with him. We drove back from CR hitting every spot we could... Nica was hardly on the map vert difficult to get to spots and saly was so scketch guatamala was empty and then mex was unreal. I flew back from cali, so surfed and travelled out total trip was five months.
2nd best trip was a high budget Indo trip 4 weeks Bali and G-land along with a week on boat best waves in the world have to be in Indo couldn't even day dream how perfect some spots were..