oops...did it again
oops...did it again
I was out of town on business. It always happens.Originally Posted by Koki Barrels
oh...sorry.
I have to agree..I lived on Maui from '88 to 93' and mostly surfed Paukukalo and loved the people and the place. I've been surfing since I was 10 so 40+ years and happy to say it's my art and lifestyle. Nothing better to keep you healthy and young.
surfing since the mid 90s. OC MD back then was the only place I ever surfed.... I was landlocked for college at Towson from 98 to 2002 just making it out once a month or so and a bunch in the summer. When I graduated, me and my girlfriend (now wife) packed up and moved to San Diego because I wanted to basically dedicate my life to surfing for a while.... It was either SD or Santa Cruz.... SD to me was a much better call..... Been surfing every day ever since for almost a decade now.... My entire 20s were consumed by surfing, trying to compete and travelling all over mexico on a weekly basis to score empty perfection with some friends. Now I Have a newborn baby, so this is actually the first time in a decade i cant surf everyday or whenever I want to... i get about 3-4 days per week and im still stoked on that.... The other mornings im working or with my Daughter... Can't wait to teach her to surf so I can drag the whole family to the beach with me all the time =)
Top spots all-time: The usual suspects that i frequent, trestles, blacks la jolla reefs and sunset cliffs.... I scored Rincon really good, Calafia in Northern Baja and I had a blast surfing on the north shore of Maui, although for when im in Maui, the surf is typically non-exsistent unless you want to drive to the east side and surf wind blow nuggets (bad luck i guess).
The only place I really want to visit that I havent been is Costa Rica.... I feel blessed that I have consistent, world class waves close to home, so i never get the travel bug... so Costa is one more spot on world travel list.... The wife and I still may end up moving back east someday, and if thats the case, I can guarantee my list of travel spots will increase 10 fold...
Cool reading everyone elses surfing history.... there are really some guys with notches on their belt.... pretty cool.
Love those secret spots! I scored like three good windward side days in 2 whole years, but soooo fun!!! It was almost like being back home, seeing those rare spots start firing.
Nice to hear that some have been surfing as long as I have, and others much longer, while the new-found stoke of those younger accompanies a healthy respect for the ocean. Now. . . if we can only get some real waves around here. . . at least it 'tis the season.
"Mai huli 'oe i kokua o ke kai"
Last edited by MDSurfer; Aug 23, 2011 at 11:18 AM.
First surfed on Aug. 6, 1998, a month shy of my 23rd birthday. I live three hours from the beach but have been in the water at least once a month, every month going on 8 years. Favorite waves, Saladita Mexico, amazing left point break. Had some great sessions in Costa Rica, but have to go with Steamer Lane as number 2, Middles. As far as best surf sessions ever, in May 2010, went to Witches Rock, we were the only boat there and for an hour and a half, 4 of us shared clean head high plus waves, amazing.
My two most desired, Raglan, I was recently in New Zealand and surfed near Auckland, but did not get a chance to hit Raglan. I'd also love to hit up Nica.
Your Post brought back more memories, you might have been Local? Do you remember when Jimmy & C.V. opened SunShine House on Cordell Ave Bethesda before 63rd St in OC ? Then Jimmy opened the stores in the Malls in the 80's. Amazing after all these years how much of impact the Shop had on our youth thanks for remembering those days ..................1. Started in 1979 in OCMD when I was a summer waiter at the Embers restaurant. & Cape Hatteras back when the lighthouse was in the old spot. Temporary insanity took over in 1981: I shelved surfing for pro ball. Got back in the ocean on a regular basis in 2004. (wtf was I thinking all those years out of the water....)
Still have my very first board, a 1974 Bing, & my 1979 Sunshine House 6'8 shaped by Claude Codgen.
This thread is better than reading surfer mag.Should be made into a book be a best seller.
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