I started surfing in OC MD in 2003 during college. Like a lot of people here, I'd still take perfect OC hurricane swell over anywhere, just because at 2-4 ft overhead it can be so damn perfect. Aside from that...
1. Rocky Point, HI: so crowded, but the waves spread out enough that you can get some, even with half the WCT in the lineup. It's a damn fine wave too, powerful but not so crazy like Pipe.
2. Log Cabins, HI: not-so-crowded and super gnarly, some great barrel rides if you don't mind eating it many times over in between.
3. Santa Cruz, CA: too many spots to name, just a great place to surf and hang out
And the wish list, since everyone else is doing that.
1. Uluwatu...if I got to choose an orgy with the Ravens' cheerleaders or just one bomb left-hander...enough said!
2. Peru or Chile: so many lefts down there! Gotta go soon.
First surfed my sophmore year of college in 1998. Had a friend whose family had a house on Holden Beach in NC and a bunch of us took a trip there one October weekend. Got up on my first wave (being pushed into it). Stayed up all night drinking Icehouse and got up to surf at dawn - naked and by myself. A lot can change in 12 years.
Since I live a good 2.5 hours from the beach it's not something I ever did often: a week at the outer banks here, a weekend in OC there. Took a trip to Tamarindo but the surf was pretty weak. Started to get way more serious about surfing about 3 years ago when I got my own board. Now I try to go at least once a month. Since I blew out my ankle two winters ago snowboarding I'm going to see about pushing deeper and deeper into winter surfing (though not ready to give up on snowboarding just yet).
I've done some travelling (Costa Rica, Nova Scotia, Maine) but due to bad luck and picking fickle spots to visit, haven't really scored good surf on a trip.
Not having surfed a whole lot, I'm picking my top spots based on memorable sessions:
1. That mushy wave in Cape May. It's got it's problems, but had two of my best sessions ever here. Went here for the first time on a Tuesday last November. The surf was acceptable, but so easy to get long rides. It was just a few days before getting ankle surgery that kept me off my feet for 4 months. Definitely helped keep the stoke while sitting on my couch playing video games. Also, felt like I really surfed on sort-of-good waves for the first time there during Hurricane Igor.
2. I guess it's a tie between any OCMD and Outer Banks beach breaks. So many places to spread out and hopefully not have to deal with crowds.
I'm going to Barbados in November for my honeymoon, so that's one place I'm really looking forward to hitting. I'd also really like to surf Ireland or Norway -- someday.
Started surfing in 1976 in Cape May... mostly Stockton, Backyard, and Poverty. Used to cut out of school (LCMR) and walk down the railroad tracks until I could thumb it over the bridge, then dig a board out of somebody's shed and go surf for the day, then hitch it back home in the afternoon. In the winter we'd build a small fire in the dunes at poverty to warm up between sessions. When the sand bars shifted, it would be Trenton and Philly, and once I could drive, depending on the wind, we'd go up to Stone Harbor or even AC. Trestles was great when we could get someone to get us on the base.
Some of the best waves of my life have been right here in NJ. They're certainly no secret, so I'll just say them... The Cove at the Hook, and Wooden Jetty. One a right, the other a left, that I happened to get when they were nothing short of epic. I have very fond memories of other waves in other places, but in terms of the best quality waves I've ever surfed, for size, power, shape, length... those two spots can give you all you could ask for.
Started in 1982 at 26th street in OCMD. Came up the hard way shortboarding-only and constantly getting hazed by the local enforcers. Spent that winter surfing way uptown at 133rd in a 3mil with dive boots,gloves and hood.
Been to alot of places but my 2 favorites are Blacks and Hossegor.
Wish list includes a month in Maine surfing chilly hurricane points, Indo, and head high uncrowded malibu (yeah I know, will never happen).
1. Started in 1982 on Cape Cod (Marconi)
2. Scored quality waves in Essaouria, Morocco; Sennen Cove, Cornwall, England; Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica and Bocas del Toro, Panama (lived there for 2 years)
3. Would love to hit up Liberia, West Africa (ha!)
1998: when i was 13 i picked up (what I now realize) was the sickest board ever- a solid retro twin fish. I spent the next few summers floundering around until i actually got my first tube ride, which changed my life forever.
Best 2 sessions:
1. Pavones, costa rica august 2010. We found surfer mag quality DOH+ lefts reeling HUNDREDS of yards down the beach. I still have wet dreams about that day- No bullsh!t.
2. East coast bombs in Avon with 4 of my tightest friends a few years back. Some of the heaviest waves that I have ever seen, and it was just the 5 of us. Back-dooring (and surviving) an 8 foot brown hell pit down there is the greatest feeling in the world. Having your buddies screaming at you because it looks as good as it feels makes it even cooler.
I want to surf the entire world, but one spot at a time. Iv already planned next years 2 weeks of vacation (f#ck working!!):
October west coast tour. Solo- No phone, no girlfriend, no bullsh!t. Just a rental car, my fav soul surfing board, and a road map.
Started floundering around in 1990 surfing Fernandina Beach Florida. Moved down there with my dad in a condo, the beach and pier were my backyard, knew noone there so all i had to do was paddle out after school daily.
FInally after a few months of dropping in straight trying a bottom turn then a quick little turn and going nowhere it happened. I got three days of consitent fun NE swell and I learned to drive down the line, on a Greg Loehr epoxy. I consdier that my first day of surfing.
1. Ocean Beach CA
Plus overhead perfect rights, easy drops big open face walls, then once more inside fast steep race track. Loved that day.
2. Rodanthe- KOA campground, pier Sturns and in between the 3. NO better place in the world for Chest to head high surf. Back in 93 and 94 KOA campground use to go off. Living down in nags head hten on every swell and KOAs sandbars were so epic, that nd the pier. Sutrns of course is still best spot on the east coast. OVer the past 15 years plenty of great waves in Rodanthe. I will take splitting head high A frames with my friends somewhere in Rodanthe over almost anything.
(have a wife and two kids now so surf trips i cant drive to are hard to come by)
Spots I want to go before turning 40.... Realistic finacially... NIcaraqua, Costa RIca, Puerto Rico...........
Dreaming big ..... 1. France Hossegor when the ASP is town, that party has to be freaking great 2. Australia 3. Mentawas